Great Planes PT-40 MkII Kit - GPMA0118 - Manual (Page 9)

6-Minute epoxy is used for simple,
small gluing operations where
elaborate alignment is not required.
Working time (before it's too gooey
to use) is about 5 minutes, handling
time 15 minutes and it's fully cured
in about 1 hour.
30-Minute epoxy is used for extra
strength (because it can penetrate
longer) and where several parts
must be aligned and checked
before it cures. Working time is
about 25 minutes, handling time 2
hours and it's fully cured in 8 hours.
45-Minute epoxy offers plenty of
responding time plus incredible
strength. It is ideal for sheeting
balsa wood to foam core wings
and other high stress areas.
Wor king time is about 45-50
minutes, handling time 2 hours and
it's fully cured overnight.
Great Planes Pro Wood Glue is an Aliphatic resin glue that
works well on all types of wood. It is non-toxic, virtually
odorless and dries clear. Some people are sensitive to the
fumes and sanding dust derived from CA, so this is a good
alternative for general modeling use. Its only drawback is
that it is slow to cure, requiring the parts to be securely
clamped, pinned or taped while the glue dries. In some
cases this is an advantage as it allows plenty of time for
accurate positioning of parts. For future reference, aliphatic
resin also sands easier than CA and is ideal for joining wing
sheeting planks.
Okay, you've got your work space ready, your tools are at
hand and you know how to choose and use the right glue
for the job. Let's get started!
❏
1. Unroll the plan sheets. Reroll the plans inside out to
make them lie flat.
❏
2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure out
the name of each part by comparing it with the plans and
the parts list included with this kit. Using a felt-tip or
ballpoint pen, lightly write the part name or size on each
piece to avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns
shown on pages 10 and 11 to identify the die-cut parts and
mark them before removing them from the sheet. Save all
scraps. If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to punch out,
do not force them! Instead, cut around the parts with a
hobby knife. After punching out the die-cut parts, use your
bar sander or sanding block to lightly sand the edges to
remove any die-cutting irregularities or slivers.
❏
3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into
groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab (stabilizer)
and hardware.
Get Ready to Build
9
Zipper-top food storage bags are handy to store your
par ts as you sor t, identify and separate them into
subassemblies.