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Adjustments – Sears 113.298141 User Manual

Page 29

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ADJUSTMENTS

LOCK KNOB

WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, TURN SWITCH
"OFF" AND REMOVE PLUG FROM POWER SOURCE

OUTLET BEFORE MAKING ANY ADJUSTMENTS.

MITER GAUGE

NOTE: The slots for the stop pin and the graduations are
manufactured to very close tolerances which provide
accuracy for average woodworking. In some cases where
extreme accuracy is required, when making angie cuts, for
example, make a trial cut and then recheck it.

If necessary, the miter gauge head can be swiveled slightly

to compensate for any inaccuracy.

1. Loosen the "knob" and pull "stop pin" OUT.

2.

Swivel the head ... position it at "0" ... push the

stop pin IN ... lock the handle.

3.

The HEAD should be square with the Bar and the

pointer should point to "0", Readjust the pointer if

necessary.

4.

If the head is not square with the bar, adjustments are

required.

A. Loosen the "knob" (1) and the "two screws" (2)

B.

Position the HEAD square with the BAR using a

combination square.

C.

PUSH the STOP PIN into the slot in the head at

"0" .. . push the pin into the slot and twist it. Lock
the knob.

D.

Recheck with the square. If the head is still not

square, loosen the screws <2) and readjust the

INDICATOR BLOCK.

E.

With the head square with the bar and the pin

pushed into the slot adjust the pointer (3) to point
to "0".

F. The miter gauge head must rest on top of the bar

without being able to move up and down ... yet it
must swivel freely.

G. The swiveling movement of the head can be

adjusted by tightening or loosening the setscrew (4)

... using the 1/8 in. setscrew wrench.

NOTE: The setscrew is located inside of the head.

To reach it, swivel the head to 60 degrees and turn

the miter gauge upside down.

HEELING ADJUSTMENT or PARALLELISM

OF SAWBLADE TO MITER GAUGE GROOVE

While cutting, the material must move in a straight line
PARALLEL to the SAWBLADE ... therefore both the
miter gauge GROOVE and the RIP FENCE must be
PARALLEL to the SAWBLADE.

If the sawblade IS NOT parallel to the miter gauge groove,

the blade will bind at one end of the cut. (This is known as

"HEELING").

To check for parallelism:

WARNING - FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, TURN SWITCH
"OFF" AND REMOVE PLUG FROM POWER SOURCE

OUTLET.

1. Raise blade all the way up ... raise blade guard.

Z Mark as "x" on one of the teeth which is SET (bent) to

the LEFT.

3.

Place the head of a combination square in the

GROOVE . . . adjust blade of square so that it just
touches the tip of of the MARKED tooth.

4.

Move square to R E A R , rotate blade to see if MARKED

tooth again touches blade of square.

5.

If tooth touches square at FRONT and REAR .. .

sawblade is PARALLEL to MITER GAUGE GROOVE,

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