Carl Goldberg GBGA0067 - Manual (Page 3)

INTRODUCTION
USING THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Before you start gluing and sanding, take some time
becoming familiar with the plans and looking through this
entire Instruction Booklet. It is designed to guide you
through the construction process step by step, so build in
the order given in this book. Building options, as well as
balancing, set- up, and flying the model are covered.
Like a full-size airplane, the SUKHOI is built from
basic structures (stabilizer, fin, wing, etc.), which are then
assembled into the complete airplane.
Special procedures or comments will usually be
explained before a step, so you will be prepared. If a step
begins with a statement like "Note," "Warning," or
"Important," it is a good idea to read through the step
before doing it.
A check-off box appears at the beginning of each
step. Check these boxes as you build, so you can tell at
a glance what steps you have completed. Some steps
are repeated and must be marked twice, as in the case of
the left and right wing panel.
Some of the instructions deal with general proce-
dures. Boxes are not needed for these sections.
HOW TO READ THE PLAN
There are two plan sheets in this kit, showing the
Fuselage (Body), the Wing, and the Tail Parts.
Everything on the plan is drawn to full-size and shape and
shows how the finished parts fit together.
The plan is drawn to show the model completely
assembled, but as a result, the areas inside or under-
neath are covered up, making it hard to understand how
these parts fit together. Therefore, for clarity, some parts
are drawn with hidden lines, others with breakaway
views, and some are entirely removed from the structure
and shown separately.
For example, on the fuselage, the left side of the com-
pleted model has been removed to show the details
inside. Sometimes a surface is broken away to reveal the
detail behind or underneath. Dashed lines indicate details
that are hidden behind or under another part of the sur-
face.
The model is made from four varieties of wood: balsa,
bass, birch, and various plywoods. Each kind of wood
has its own characteristic end grain pattern (as viewed
from the end) which has been drawn in this book. You
can easily use these end grain patterns to identify what
kind of wood is shown for a part, if you are in doubt.
HOW TO USE THE PLAN
The plan is used in several ways. The wings, stabilizer,
and fin are assembled directly over the plan. Each wood
part is matched over its corresponding location printed on
the plan and pinned in place. To prevent ruining your plan
from gluing your wings, etc. to it, cover the area you are
working on with waxed paper.
The paper the plan is printed on can expand or
contract slightly with changes in temperature or
humidity. Because of this, a preformed part such as
the notched wing trailing edge may not exactly match
the plan. This is no problem, as slight deviations in the
outline or size will not noticeably affect flight performance.
Because the fuselage plugs together and is self-
aligning, it is not built directly over the plan. As you
assemble the fuselage, you will find the plan helpful in
identifying parts and how things fit together. The plan
also shows the installation of a typical radio, battery and
all remaining equipment and hardware needed to com-
plete the model. By referring to the examples shown,
you should be able to install your own radio, etc., even if
it is not the same as what is shown on the plan.
IDENTIFYING PARTS
Parts for the wing are bundled together; likewise, parts
for the tail assembly are also grouped. Die-cut plywood and
balsa sheets of common sizes are bundled together, so they
are less likely to be damaged during shipping and handling.
The various screws, hinges, and fittings are packaged
in plastic bags.
PREPARING FOR ASSEMBLY
Set a flat, warp-free pinning board on your work
bench. Any material that accepts pins, such as insulation
board, soft plywood, or dry-wall (sheet rock) will work.
Important: any warps or bends in the pinning board will
result in wings or tail surfaces that are also warped or
bent, making your model more difficult to fly. Make sure
that the pinning board is flat by laying a straight edge
across it. You may be able to correct a warped board by
shimming its low areas.
Position the area of the plan (such as the stabilizer)
on which you are going to build over the pinning board
and tape it in place so the plan lays flat and wrinkle free.
Place a sheet of waxed paper or plastic kitchen wrap
over the work area to prevent Super Jet from sticking to
your plan and ruining it.
CONSTRUCTION TIPS
In assembling your model, the following tips will
prove helpful.
IMPORTANT: ALWAYS READ A FEW STEPS
AHEAD. This will alert you to coming instructions and
will help you plan accordingly.
You may find it convenient to empty all of the small
parts from the hardware bags into a common container,
such as a margarine tub. This will help you find items
quickly.
When drilling any 1/16" holes in balsa, you may find
it easier to twist the drill between your thumb and index
finger. This procedure allows more control in positioning
the drill on the center mark.
Punch out only the laser-cut parts you need as you
proceed. This will help you keep track of parts, especial-
ly the small ones.
Sometimes you will be asked to “tack cement” a
piece of wood that will later be taken apart. To provide
for easy removal without damage, use only a small drop
of glue.
After completing each section of the aircraft, you may
want to go back and reglue the joints, just in case some
area has been missed. Be careful not to use too little
glue, which will leave the model weak, or too much glue,
which can make the model heavy. Properly glued joints
are important to the overall strength of the model. CA
glue is recommended for most parts of the assembly,
although epoxy glue may be used when more time is
needed for careful placement.
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