Great Planes Spirit 2-Meter Sailplane Kit - GPMA0530 - Manual (Page 22)

These pieces should be glued with thick CA. They are
pressed into the corner between the fuselage bottom and the
fuselage doubler in the following places:
Glue the 4-5/8" pieces behind the towhook plate.
Glue the 2" long pieces on top of and in front of the
towhook plate.
Glue the 4-1/16" long pieces between formers F3 and F4.
Glue the 2-7/8" long pieces between former F2 and F3.
inside of the fuselage) with a hammer and put a drop of thick
CA around the outside edge of each blind nut (be careful not
to get glue inside the blind nut!).
And glue the 1-1/4" long piece along the bottom between
formers F1 and F2 to seal the gap there.
D 10. Sand the fuselage sides and bottom flush with the
front of former F1 and glue the Shaped Balsa Nose block
(SPRTF10) in place with thick CA. The bottom of the nose
block should overlap the fuselage bottom by about 1/32" to
allow for sanding to final shape.
D 11. Drill three 9/64" (1/8" is light but will work) holes in
the 1/8" plywood bottom for the towhook. There should be
three indentations to show you where to drill. Gently Tap the
three 4-40 Blind Nuts (NUTS001) into the holes (from the
IF YOU ARE NOT BUILDING A
BOLT-ON WING SKIP AHEAD TO
"ASSEMBLE THE CANOPY".
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D 12. Cut two pieces of 1/4" birch plywood (not included)
which will be drilled and tapped for the wing bolts. The front
piece should be approximately 2-1 /32" x 1" and the rear piece
should be approximately 2" x I". You will want to measure
your fuselage to make the parts fit properly. You should cut
the wing saddle tripler away so the blocks can glue directly to
the fuselage doubler. Securely glue these in place with thick
CA or epoxy. Glue triangle stock around each one for extra
strength.
D 13. Glue a 1/16" Plywood Rear Wing Bolt Plate (not
included) on top of the wing trailing edge to protect it from
being crushed by the rear wing bolt (see the wing plan top
view for the approximate size and shape).