Elecraft KIO2 - Manual (Page 4)

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Allow J1 and the brass nuts to cool, then remove the assembly from the vise.
Carefully remove the two hex standoffs. The nuts should remain firmly attached to J1. Note: If the
nuts should become loose during later assembly steps, they can be re-attached with the KIO2 in place.
Locate the larger of the two PC boards, labeled "KIO2" along one edge of the board. This is the top
side of the board. Flip the board over, so that the side with the "ELECRAFT" label is facing up.
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In the following step, J1 may be a very tight fit onto the edge of the PC board. Press it on firmly,
but be careful not to bend any of the solder-cup pins.
Press J1 (with the nuts attached) onto the notched edge of the KIO2 board as shown in Figure 2. There
must be no gap between J1's plastic body and the edge of the board. The bottom side of the board has four
pads, corresponding to the row of 4 pins on J1. The other side has 5 pads, matching J1's 5-pin row. Each
solder-cup pin should be lined up as closely as possible with the center of its pad. Do not solder yet.
Note: If you have a padded vise with wide jaws, such as a PC board vise, you can use it to hold J1 firmly
against the edge of the PC board.
Make sure J1 is perpendicular to the board before soldering. Solder just one pin to its corresponding
pad, using a minimum of solder.
Re-check the position of J1. It must be pushed all the way on, and should be perpendicular to the
board. Then solder the remaining pins of both rows.
Install D1 (1N4148) on the bottom side of the board, pre-forming the leads to fit the given location.
The cathode end of the diode, which has a band (or the widest band), must be oriented towards the
banded end of the component outline. Solder D1, using a soldering time of about 1-2 seconds per lead.
Trim D1's leads as short as possible on the top side of the board after soldering.
Install D2, D3, and D4 in the same manner as D1. Note: D2's banded end faces the opposite
direction of the other three diodes.
Figure 2