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INCRA Jig User Manual

Page 10

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10

Tip: After making your first series of
pin cuts, check the fit with one of your
tail boards. If the tail board won’t fit
all the way into the pin board, just
measure the distance it protrudes,
Fig 38A. This is the distance you
need to move the stop away from the
bit to achieve a flush fit.

Pin Cuts

Move the INCRA Jig to the first pin cut on the template that will position the
cutter outside the fence. Since the pin sockets are stopped cuts, bring the
stop positioner just up to the outside diameter of the cutter and clamp in
place, Fig. 37. This stop setup will always (and intentionally) produce a
socket that is just a little short, so we’ll only cut one end of one piece
at this time, then adjust as necessary. Using a rubber soled push
block, move the stock into the cut until you just touch the stop. Don’t
force the material against the stop. Now move the fence from one pin
cut to the next until you have cut across the full width of your material, Fig.
38
. After making the cuts, check the fit between this board and one of the
tail boards. Adjust
the stop position
as necessary to
control the socket
length for a
perfect, flush fit
(See Tip and Fig.
38A at right).
Now make the
final pin cuts on
both ends of both
boards.

Fig. 36

Cut the tails

Fence

Right angle fixture

Handscrew clamp

Fig. 37

Set stop positioner

Position stop as close as

possible to the outfeed

side of the bit

Stop positioner

Clamp two tail boards

with rabbets facing

outward as shown

Tail Cuts - Continued

Now, clamp the two tail boards to your Right Angle
Fixture as shown in Fig. 36 and make the tail series of
cuts. The first cut for any tail board will always remove
the edge of the stock. To keep this first cut clean and
splinter-free, it’s a good idea to return to a 1/32” scoring
pass, then sneak up to the first visible mark on the
template in one or two passes. The first visible mark
determines which cut lines to use on the template for the
remainder of the tail cuts. If the first mark is a “B” cut for
example, simply move the INCRA Jig from one “B” cut to
the next “B” cut until you have cut across the full width of
your material. After completing the cuts, flip the boards
end for end and repeat.

Tail board

Pin board

Fig. 38A

Pin cuts - final adjustment

Move stop block this far back

to achieve a flush fit

Beginner’s Tip

After making a half blind dovetail, you may notice that the joint looks
symmetrical, but the edges of the two boards do not align flush, Fig. 39. This
simply means that when you centered your material as described on page 8,
you were close but not quite perfect. Of
course practice DOES make perfect, but
there is another method for cutting the tail
boards that will ensure a flush alignment
regardless of how well your board was
centered. Just make sure when you clamp
the tail boards to the Right Angle Fixture
that the dovetail shaped rabbets on all of
the boards face the cutter, Fig. 40. That’s
all it takes! Remember that even if you use
this procedure, you should still center first to
ensure a symmetrical looking joint.

Boards not flush

Fig. 39

Tail cuts - beginner’s tip

Fig. 40

Dovetail shaped rabbets face cutter

Fig. 38

Pin cuts - final