Field of application, Nomenclature of parts, Inspection, points to verify – Petzl UNIVERSO User Manual
Page 5: Compatibility, Installing the universo, Warnings before and during use, Belaying the leader, Lowering a climber in a toprope situation, Rappelling, Adjusting the braking

5
D18_UNIVERSO_D185000A (120110)
(EN) ENGLISH
Only the techniques shown in the diagrams that are not crossed out and/or do not
display a skull and crossbones symbol are authorized. Check our Web site regularly
to find the latest versions of these documents: www.petzl.com
Contact PETZL if you have any doubt or difficulty understanding these documents.
1. Field of application
Belay / rappel device for climbing and mountaineering.
System composed of a belay / rappel device (VERSO) joined to a carabiner
(ATTACHE 3D).
The system is designed to favor loading the carabiner on its major axis (maximum
strength) and to reduce the chance of losing the descender.
This product must not be loaded beyond its strength rating, nor be used for any
purpose other than that for which it is designed.
WARNING
Activities involving the use of this equipment are inherently dangerous.
You are responsible for your own actions and decisions.
Before using this equipment, you must:
- Read and understand all instructions for use.
- Get specific training in its proper use.
- Become acquainted with its capabilities and limitations.
- Understand and accept the risks involved.
Failure to heed any of these warnings may result in severe injury or death.
You must also be familiar with rescue techniques so that a rescue may be
immediately carried out in case of difficulties encountered while using this product.
This implies an adequate training in the necessary rescue techniques.
Responsibility
WARNING, specific training in the activities defined in the field of application is
essential before use.
This product must only be used by competent and responsible persons, or those
placed under the direct and visual control of a competent and responsible person.
Gaining an adequate apprenticeship in appropriate techniques and methods of
protection is your own responsibility.
You personally assume all risks and responsibilities for all damage, injury or death
which may occur during or following incorrect use of our products in any manner
whatsoever. If you are not able, or not in a position to assume this responsibility or
to take this risk, do not use this equipment.
2. Nomenclature of parts
(A) VERSO belay / rappel device
(1) Cable, (2) VERSO frame, (3) Rope slots, (4) Friction channels.
(B) ATTACHE 3D carabiner
(5) Frame, (6) Gate, (7) Hinge, (8) Locking sleeve, (9) Keylock, (10) Keylock hole,
(11) Red locking indicator.
(C) Plastic joining piece
(12) Plastic piece attachment screw.
Principal materials: aluminum alloy, technical plastic.
3. Inspection, points to verify
Before each use
Verify that it is free of any cracks, deformation, marks, corrosion, etc.
Check the product’s state of wear.
Look carefully for sharp edges on the VERSO that can develop with use.
Make sure there are no cracks in the plastic piece. Verify that the plastic piece
slides easily along the carabiner’s major axis. Make sure there is not excessive play
between the plastic piece and the carabiner.
Open the carabiner gate and verify that it closes itself automatically when released.
The Keylock hole must not be clogged (dirt, pebble, etc.).
Consult the details of the inspection procedure to be carried out for each product
at www.petzl.com. Contact PETZL if there is any doubt about the condition of this
product.
During each use
It is important to regularly monitor the condition of the product and its connections
to the other equipment in the system. Make sure that all pieces of equipment in
the system are correctly positioned with respect to each other. Take care to keep
foreign objects out of the rope slots.
Regularly check that the carabiner is locked.
4. Compatibility
Verify that this product is compatible with the other elements of the system in your
application (compatible = good functional interaction).
Ropes
For use with EN 892 or UIAA dynamic (core + sheath) half ropes (2 x 1/2 ropes),
twin ropes, or dynamic single rope, 7.5 to 11 mm in diameter.
When using two strands of rope, the two strands must be similar (diameter,
condition, texture).
WARNING, certain ropes may be slippery, for example new ropes, small diameter
ropes, certain sheath constructions and/or sheath treatments, wet ropes, etc. (see
the instructions specific to the rope).
5. Installing the UNIVERSO
- Clip the carabiner into the belay loop of your harness.
- Single rope: insert a loop of rope into one of the rope slots.
- Half and twin ropes: insert a loop of rope into each of the two rope slots.
Insert the loop or loops of rope into the carabiner and lock the carabiner (red
locking indicator not visible).
6. Warnings before and during use
VERSO
The VERSO does not automatically stop the rope from sliding through the
device. The belayer must actively stop the rope from sliding in order to
arrest a fall.
Always keep a secure grip on the braking side of the rope.
The belayer must be anchored to the belay before belaying or lowering
a partner.
- The use of gloves is recommended.
- Before use, familiarize yourself with how your rope works with the UNIVERSO to
get an idea of its braking capabilities.
Cable = 0 kN
The cable has no tensile strength.
WARNING DANGER, do not use the cable to anchor yourself.
Carabiner
The carabiner must always be used with the gate closed and locked.
Vibrations and/or rubbing can loosen the locking sleeve and unlock the carabiner.
The strength of the connector is greatly reduced if the gate is open.
Nothing must obstruct the connector. Any constraint or external pressure is
dangerous.
WARNING, if you decide to use your carabiner and/or your VERSO separately, be
sure to consult the technical notice for each of these products at www.petzl.com
7. Belaying the leader
WARNING: when leaving the belay, the leader’s rope must pass through a
directional anchor.
7A. Giving slack
With the hand on the braking side of the rope, push the rope toward the VERSO,
forming a loop. The hand on the climber’s side of the rope then pulls the slack rope
through the VERSO.
7B. Taking up slack
The hand on the climber’s side regularly takes up the slack rope. The hand on the
braking side pulls the rope through the VERSO.
7C. Arresting a fall
Pull firmly downward on the braking side of the rope.
8. Lowering a climber in a toprope
situation
Grip the braking side of the rope below the VERSO with both hands. The belayer
moves one hand after the other. Always keep a firm grip on the braking side of
the rope.
9. Belaying the second with the rope
redirected through a top anchor
See chapter 5: Installing the UNIVERSO.
The second’s rope must pass through a directional anchor.
10. Rappelling
Install the two strands of rope in the VERSO as shown in chapter 5. To brake,
tighten your grip on the braking side of the ropes.
When doing multiple rappels, leave your system in place on your harness to limit
the risk of losing your descender.
Use an independent rappel backup system (SHUNT or self-locking knot)
below the VERSO.
11. Adjusting the braking
In most cases, choose the position: braking side of the rope running in the friction
channels (see chapter 5).
In other cases, adjust the braking position as needed for different user weights,
rope diameters, applications and rope condition. For less friction, reverse the rope
path through the device. The braking side of the rope runs over the side of the
device opposite the friction channels.
12. Adjustments
You can change the direction of the VERSO on the carabiner according to your
dominant hand.
To reverse the direction of the VERSO on the carabiner, use a PZ1 screwdriver to
remove the plastic piece. Remove the two screws from the plastic piece. Position
the VERSO in the desired direction. Close the plastic piece. Replace and tighten
the two screws. Verify that the plastic piece slides easily along the carabiner’s
major axis. Make sure there is not excessive play between the plastic piece and
the carabiner.
This operation should only be done if necessary.
Removing and replacing the plastic piece is done under your own responsibility.
13. General information
Lifetime / When to retire your equipment
For Petzl’s plastic and textile products, the maximum lifetime is 10 years from the
date of manufacture. It is indefinite for metallic products.
ATTENTION: an exceptional event can lead you to retire a product after only
one use, depending on the type and intensity of usage and the environment of
usage (harsh environments, sea, sharp edges, extreme temperatures, chemical
products, etc.).
A product must be retired when:
- It is over 10 years old and made of plastic or textiles.
- It has been subjected to a major fall (or load).
- It fails to pass inspection. You have any doubt as to its reliability.
- You do not know its full usage history.
- When it becomes obsolete due to changes in legislation, standards, technique or
incompatibility with other equipment, etc.
Destroy retired equipment to prevent further use.
Product inspection
In addition to the inspection before each use, an in-depth inspection must be
carried out by a competent inspector. The frequency of the in-depth inspection
must be governed by applicable legislation, and the type and the intensity of use.
Petzl recommends an inspection at least once every 12 months.
To help maintain product traceability, do not remove any markings or labels.
Inspection results should be recorded on a form with the following details: type
of equipment, model, manufacturer contact information, serial or individual
number; dates of: manufacture, purchase, first use, next periodic inspection;
notes: problems, comments; name and signature of the inspector.
See an example at www.petzl.fr/ppe or on the Petzl PPE CD-ROM.
Storage, transport
Store the product in a dry place away from exposure to UV, chemicals, extreme
temperatures, etc. Clean and dry the product if necessary.
Modifications, repairs
Modifications and repairs outside of Petzl facilities are prohibited (except
replacement parts).
3-year guarantee
Against all material or manufacturing defect. Exclusions: normal wear and tear,
oxidation, modifications or alterations, incorrect storage, poor maintenance,
negligence, uses for which this product is not designed.
Responsibility
PETZL is not responsible for the consequences, direct, indirect or accidental, or
any other type of damage befalling or resulting from the use of its products.