Great Planes 27% Extra 330S ARF - GPMA1413 - Manual (Page 17)

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5. Thread a 4-40 nut and a 4-40 clevis onto the threaded
coupler on the cable. Fit a silicone clevis retainer over the
clevis. Connect the clevis to what used to be the middle hole
in one of the control horns you prepared, but now is the third
hole from the top.
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6. Slide one of the pieces of blue heat-shrink tubing
over the cable. Shrink the heat-shrink tubing over the cable
somewhere near the middle (you will still be able to slide
the tubing after it has been shrunk). Position the heat-shrink
tubing so the middle of the tube is 18-3/4" [475mm] from
the pin in the clevis. Slide the heat-shrink tubing over a
couple more inches and coat the cable with a few drops of
medium CA where the tubing used to be. Slide the heat-
shrink tubing back and forth a few times to get the CA inside,
then reposition the tubing as previously described so it is
centered 18-3/4" [475mm] from the pin.
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7. While the CA in the heat-shrink tubing is hardening,
repeat steps 2 through 6 for the other cable.
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8. Slide the other end of one of the cables through the
exit slot in the right side of the fuselage under the horizontal
stabilizer. Reach down into the fuselage and pull the cable up
to the rudder servos.
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9. Hold the rudder centered with a few pieces of
masking tape.
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10. Using one hand to hold the cable to the left side of the
servo arm on the aft rudder servo (the cables cross inside
the fuselage), use your other hand to hold the control horn
to the right side of the rudder so the cable aligns with the
exit slot.
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11. Mount the horn to the rudder in this location by drilling
four 3/32" [2.4mm] holes and using four #4 x 1/2" [13mm]
screws–don’t forget to harden the holes with thin CA.
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12. Mount the other cable to the other side of the rudder
the same way.
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13. Connect another 4-40 clevis, a 4-40 nut and a silicone
retainer to another threaded coupler.
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14. Turn on the transmitter and receiver. Slide a swage
over the pull/pull cable in the fuselage that is connected to the
horn on the right side of the rudder. Loop the cable through
the coupler. Connect the clevis on the cable to the hole in the
servo arm. With the rudder servos centered, pull the cable
tight and loop the cable around the threaded coupler. Then,
slide the swage over the end of the loop and squeeze the
swage with pliers. Cut off the excess cable.
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15. Adjust the tension in the cable by disconnecting one
of the clevises on either end of the cable and threading or
unthreading the clevis on the coupler. The cable should be
somewhat taut–about as tight as a loose guitar string–but
not so tight that it puts much strain on the servos, clevises or
rudder. Reconnect the clevis.
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16. Connect the other rudder cable to the other side of the
rudder servo arm the same way.
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17. Remove the masking tape from the rudder. Give
the rudder a “test run” by working the controls with your
radio. With the system powered up and the rudder trim still
centered, center the rudder by adjusting the length of the
cables and adjusting the cable tension. With the offset servo
arm, cable tension should be about the same with the rudder
centered as it is when the rudder is at full throw.
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18. Once the rudder setup has been fi nalized, lock the
clevises to the threaded couplers by tightening the 4-40 nuts.
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19. Cut another piece of heat-shrink tubing to secure the
connection between the rudder servos and the dual servo