Top Flite KittiWake - Manual (Page 5)

wing panel's alignment. Before leaving this struc-
ture to cure, carefully remove any oozing
adhesive from the tops of the wing panel's still ex-
posed W-1B ribs.
12. Remove the now-assembled wing from your
bench and inspect yourwork.Useasanding block
to clean-up the joints. The leading edge of the
wing is now first razor-planed to rough shape
followed by the sanding block to achieve final
shape. Take your time here and bring these
shapes down to those shown on the plans.
13. The top of the fully sheeted center section,
behind the spar, is now opened up to accept your
aileron servo. As shown on the plans, the aileron
servo is to be installed on it's side. The opening
that you need to make should correspond with the
dimensions of your system's servo. Under no cir-
cumstances should the width of this opening ex-
ceed the inside dimensions of the fuselage in-
terior (2-1/8" between the F-2 doublers). Most radio
system manufacturers provide what is called an
Aileron Servo Tray for their servos. This is what
we've used on our prototypes and recommend to
you. The servo is mounted to the tray and the tray
can then be mounted into the opening in the
center section and to the floor. The tray can be
held in place with servo mounting tape or you can
do as we did and install a couple of scrap spruce
rails (1/4" thick) and screw the tray to the rails. You
should now make-up the aileron servo mounting
system that you're going to use. As shown, the
aileron servo's output arm is fitted with the DuBro
EZ Connector (supplied) which is used to drive
the aileron drive cable. Install this connector to
the output arm that you plan to use. (IMPORTANT
You will not need a great deal of "throw" from
your servo to the output arm and we suggest that
this connector be mounted on the output arm's
innermost hole.) Place the servo, in place to the
servo tray and with the EZ connector attached, in-
to the opening. Now observe where the cable
housing tube (one in each panel) needs to enter
the compartment, through the W-1B ribs and
carefully mark these locations on the ribs.
Remove the servo and use a 1/8" drill bit (hand-
held) to drill these first two holes. Use the plans to
now drill the remaining 1/8" holes through ribs W-2
through W-5. Angle drill the tube exit holes, as
shown on the plans, just inboard of W-6 (also see
Section C-C)
14. From your kit, locate the 36" length of aileron
drive cable and drive cable tubing. Lightly sand
the surface of the tubing and cut it into two 18"
lengths. Now install the tubing into the holes
you've drilled, as shown on the plans—don't glue
yet, just get it into place with the excess pro-
truding out of the aileron end. Working from one
side, slide the cable into the tube, working it as
needed to negotiate the corners—be patient, it'll
go. Run the cable all the way through and out the
other side, centering it in the servo compartment.
Try moving the cable back and forth a few times, it
should be fairly smooth and free. Adjust the as-
yet unglued tubing to achieve free movement of
the cable (a little heat from your heat gun at the
curves, really helps). Once satisfied, use slow-
setting CA glue to permanently secure the tubes
at each rib station and the angled exit points—do
thiswiththecablestill in place. When dry, remove
the cable and trim the outboard angled ends of
the tubing flush with the sheeting.
15. Cut, fit and glue the top center section sheeting to
each wing panel followed by the last cap strip
pieces over the two W-3 ribs. Lightly sand the
outer faces of the W-8 ribs smooth and flat. You
can now glue the 1" x 1-1/4" x 6-1/8" balsa wingtip
blocks in place to the W-8 ribs but NOT to the
outer ends of the ailerons. These blocks can now
be shaped and final-sanded, as shown on the
plans. The entire wing should be sanded and
smoothed to final shape.
16. Using the marks made earlier, the ailerons can
now be cut from the wing. Use a sharp #11 knife
and a straight edge. Once the ailerons are free;
sand the aileron bays smooth and straight. Cut, fit
and glue 1/16" balsa sheet over the open rib ends
and against the top and bottom sheeting, thus
closing uptheaileron bay.As shownonthe plans,
the ailerons now need to be beveled, to facilitate
free movement. Do this now with your sanding
block. Also sand the face of W-4A flat and smooth.
Before capping the face of the ailerons, you'll
need to install the two die-cut W-11 aileron horn
mounting plates (1/16" ply) in place as shown. Glue
these in now. Take one of the nylon control horns
from your kit, hold it in place on the bottom of the
aileron and use a pencil to mark the hole loca-
tions for later mounting. The front face of the now-
prepared aileron can now be sheeted with 1/16"
balsa. Lightly sand the ailerons, top, bottom and
ends, with your sanding block. Use the sanding
block to slightly bevel the top, front edges of each
aileron, down to the hinge line (see Sections A-A
and C-C).
17. Using the plans, mark the hinge locations for
each aileron on both the wing and aileron. Use a
#11 blade to carefully cut the hinge slots. Tem-
porarily install the ailerons to the wing with the
nylon hinges. Check for fit and movement and
trim as needed for a perfect fit.
Your wing is now complete with the exception of install-
ing the 1/4"dia. dowel in the forward center section. This
will take place during fuselage construction.
TIP FLOAT ASSEMBLY
From your kit, locate the four ABS plastic tip float
halves. You should have two right and two left halves. As
you can see from the diagram and the views on the
plans, these molded tip floats are mounted over a cen-
tral light-ply "core" (TF-1). These cores are slotted at the
top to accept three 3/32" I.D. x 3/8" brass tubes. These
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