Great Planes F4 Phantom - GPMA0440 - Manual (Page 5)

On our workbench, we have three 11" Great Planes
Easy-Touch Bar Sanders, equipped with 80, 150 and
220-grit sandpaper. This setup is all that is required for
almost any sanding task. We also keep some
320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for finish sanding
before covering.
Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders are made from
lightweight extruded aluminum and can be found at most
hobby shops. They are available in five sizes - 5-1/2"
(GPMR6169) for those tight, hard to reach spots;
11" (GPMR6170) for most general purpose sanding; and
22" (GPMR6172), 33" (GPMR6174) and 44" (GPMR6176)
for long surfaces such as wing leading edges. The
Easy-Touch adhesive-backed sandpaper comes in
2" x 12' rolls of 80-grit (GPMR6180), 150-grit (GPMR6183),
180-grit (GPMR6184) and 220-grit (GPMR6185) and an
assortment of 5-1/2" long strips (GPMR6189) for the short
bar sander. The adhesive-backed sandpaper is easy to
apply and remove from your sanding bar when it's time
for replacement.
Custom sanding blocks can be made from balsa or hardwood
blocks and dowels for sanding difficult to reach spots.
Sheet metal screws are designated
by a number and a length. For
example #6 x 3/4"
Machine screws are designated by
a number, threads per inch and a
length. For example 4-40 x 3/4"
When you see the term "test fit" in the instructions, it
means you should first position the part on the assembly
without using any glue and then slightly modify or sand
the part as necessary for the best fit.
Whenever the instructions tell you to glue pieces together,
CA or epoxy may be used. When a specific type of glue is
required, the instructions will state the type of glue that is
highly recommended. When 30-minute epoxy is specified,
it is highly recommended that you use only 30-minute (or
slower) epoxy because you will need either the working
time or the additional strength.
Several times during construction we refer to the "top" or
"bottom" of the model or a part of the model. For example,
during wing construction we tell you to "glue the top main
spar" or "trim the bottom of the former." It is understood that
the "top" or "bottom" of the model is as it would be when the
airplane is right side up and will be referred to as the "top"
even if the model is being worked on upside down. (i.e. the
"top" main spar is always the "top" main spar, even when
the wing is being built upside down).
There are two types of screws used in this kit:
1. Unroll the plan sheets. Reroll the plan sheets inside
Balsa Basswood Plywood
out to make them lie flat. The two-part plan will need to be
cut along the dashed line and taped together. Place wax
paper or Great Planes Plan Protector over the plan to
prevent glue from sticking to the plan.
2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, determine
the name of each part by comparing it with the plan and
the parts list included with this kit. Using a felt-tip or
ballpoint pen, lightly write the part name or size on each
piece to avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns
shown on pages 6 and 7 to identify the die-cut parts and
mark them before removing them from the sheet. Save all
scraps. If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to remove, do
not force them! Instead, cut around the parts. Use your
Easy-Touch Bar Sander or sanding block to lightly sand
the edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities.
3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them
Elev = Elevator
LE = Leading Edge (front)
Ply = Plywood
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
Fuse = Fuselage
LG = Landing Gear
Stab = Stabilizer
" = Inches
into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab
(stabilizer) and hardware. Resealable food storage bags
are handy to store parts in as you sort, identify and
separate them into subassemblies.
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