Great Planes F4 Phantom - GPMA0440 - Manual (Page 33)

10. Fill the gap between the stabilizer and former F-10
with leftover pieces of 3/16" die-sheet from the belly pan
sides. Sand the filler flush with the fuse sides, the bottom
of the stab and former F-10.
5. Mount the wing on the fuselage. Without gluing,
insert the stab in the slot between the fuse sides and radio
tray, centering it visually. Carefully trim the LE so that the
stab contacts former F-9, fuse sides and radio tray. Use a
string or measuring tape to measure the distance from
each stab tip to a pin centered in the bottom of F-1. The
distance to the pin must be equal from each stab tip.
Important: Position the plane on an airplane stand so that the
incidence of the wing is at 0%. Set a level at the centerline of
the stab to check that the stab incidence is 0%. A line level
found at most hardware stores works great for this.
6. Mark reference lines on both sides of the stab bottom.
7. Position the model so that you can sight it several feet
away from the front and rear. Check the distance from the
stab tips and the bottom of the wing. The distance must be
equal. If not, sand the high side of the slot slightly to
correct the situation. Recheck the incidence and when
satisfied, remove the stab.
1. Permanently glue former F-10 in position.
2. Final sand the fin and test fit it in position. You may
need to widen the slot in the TE of the stab for the rudder
torque rod. Check that the fin contacts the turtledeck. If not,
lightly sand the bottom of the fin.
3. Place the model on your building board and place
shims under the fuselage until both stab tips are an equal
distance from the building board. Use a 90-degree building
triangle to set the fin perpendicular to the building board,
sanding the slot as necessary.
4. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the fin in the fin slot, the
top of the stab and the top of the turtledeck. Check that the
fin is perpendicular to the building board once again before
the epoxy cures.
8. We recommend a mixture of 30-minute epoxy and
milled fiberglass (for additional strength) to glue the stab to
the fuse. If you do not have milled fiberglass, 30-minute
epoxy will work fine alone. Glue the stab to the fuse sides,
F-9 and the radio tray. Before the e p o x y cures,
recheck the alignment from all points of reference.
9. Apply petroleum jelly on the elevator torque rods
where they exit the nylon torque rod bushings. This will
prevent the torque rods from becoming glued to the
bushings. Use epoxy to glue the elevator torque rods in the
TE of the stab. 1. Cut and glue a piece of leftover 3/8" x 1-1/4" balsa
elevator TE to the aft side of the die-cut 1/16" plywood
splitter plates. Sand the ends of the TE flush with the
edges of the splitter plate.
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