Triton BRA 200 User Manual

Page 4

Sandpaper attached to

the face of the batten will

provide grip and support for

the workpiece.
If bevelling small or

awkward pieces on a

regular basis we suggest

you construct a hold-down jig, as shown in

Fig.6, for safer more accurate guidance of the

workpiece.

5. Chamfering (Fig.7)
If you wish to chamfer an

edge, rather than cut a full

bevel, unlock the Bevel

Ripping Guide and move

it to the required position.

Both ends must be locked

at the same selected scale

reading.

6. Fine Work (Fig.8)
To protect fragile work

from splitting near the end

of the cut, move the front

edge support closer to the

blade, as shown in Fig.8.

This will provide greater

infeed support. After any

adjustment, make sure

the clamping screws are fully tightened. Note:

chamfers are not possible in this position.

7. Compound Mitres
Compound mitre joints require the use of a Series

2000 Workcentre protractor.
Due to the difficulty in calculating the true cutting

angles required for compound mitre joints, the

chart opposite covers some common joints.
For joints not shown on this chart, equations are

provided overleaf for you to calculate the various

cutting angles, using a scientific calculator.
The scales on the Bevel Ripping Guide and

the protractor are calibrated in single degree

increments. While this is suitable for general

work, compound mitres require settings within

the degree increments. Carefully estimated

fractions of a degree will provide the required

results.
Always practice the joints first using scrap

material.
Choose the shape you wish to build, (try the

triangle or square first - they’re the easiest). Then

decide how steep a bevel angle you want, shown

as b° on the chart. (Shallow angles and narrow

boards result in picture frames or trays, larger

angles and wide boards result in planter boxes).

Step 1
Cut each of your workpieces to exactly the same

length in the table saw mode, and cut opposing

MITRE ANGLES (M°) at each end using the

Workcentre protractor. Use the outer scale of

the protractor (45°- 0 - 45°), with the and

symbols indicating which side of “0” to set it.
(If you use the left table slot in table saw mode,

the protractor positions and settings are the

same as those shown in the protractor diagrams.)

Step 2
Fit the Bevel Ripping Guide and set it to the

BEVEL GUIDE ANGLE shown.
Re-cut all of your mitres on the Bevel Ripping

Guide using the protractor positions and settings

shown.

Equations
M°

= tan

-1

( )

B° = cos

-1

(

)

M° = True mitre angle to be cut
B° = True bevel angle (BEVEL GUIDE ANGLE)
m° = Corner half angle
b° = Side angle to be horizontal

sidewards play at the back of your blade, and

check whether your saw is correctly mounted on

the slide chassis.
Storage note: The track arms must be set at 90°

for the quadrants to be folded behind the work

panel for compact storage.

• Most bevel angles can be cut with the

overhead guard in place. If you remove the

guard for a specific cut, take great care and

replace the overhead guard before continuing

with other cuts.

• Keep fingers completely clear of the blade,

including the area behind the workpiece close

to the blade.

• Take care when handling workpieces and off-

cuts, bevel cuts can result in sharp edges.

Assembly / Operating

Operating

OPERATING

Fig.3

Fig.4

Fig.5

Fig.6

Fig.7

It’s a good idea to practice your bevel cuts on

scrap material.
Stand to the left of the Workcentre, hold the

workpiece firmly down onto the front edge

support and against the work panel. As the

back of the workpiece passes off the front edge

support, avoid dipping it down against the blade,

as this will cause a slight step in the bevel. This

is particularly noticeable with shorter pieces,

because of their limited contact with the edge

supports.
By practicing on scrap material, you will find the

best hand positions, and the best use of hold-

down pressure to avoid this final “dip”. Begin by

practicing on larger pieces, and try using either

the top of the work panel, (or the top of one of

the're bates in the panel) as finger rests to help

you control the workpiece throughout the cut.
Preferably use the sandpaper faced batten in

Fig.5, or the protractor, Fig.4, for additional

support.
Note: a perfect bevel requires the workpiece to

have a perfectly straight edge to start with.

1. Wide Workpieces (Fig.3)
The maximum width of

manageable workpiece

partly depends on the

skill and experience of the

operator. As a general rule,

up to 600mm (24") widths

can be handled

quite comfortably.

For larger sizes you should have someone assist

you.

2. Long Workpieces
When bevelling long workpieces, use a Triton

Multi-Stand to provide infeed and outfeed

support for your workpiece, or have someone

assist you.

3. Narrow Workpieces (Fig.4)
The Workcentre protractor,

inserted into the slot along

the top of the Work panel

(A), can be used for extra

guidance and support

when bevel cutting narrow

workpieces.
The protractor should slide smoothly, without

sidewards play along the full length of the slot.

If this is not the case loosen the Philips-head

screws and adjust the width of the slot until the

protractor slider strip fits snugly, then re-tighten.

If necessary spray the slot with a spray lubricant,

such as RP7 or WD40, to improve the protractor

sliding action.

4. Awkward Workpieces (Fig.5 & 6)
When bevelling short or

awkward shaped pieces,

trim a batten out of 12mm

(

⁄

") material to fit flush

within the recess running

along the work panel.

Fig.8

tan m°
cos b°
sin m°
sin M°