Triton TCB 100 - Manual (Page 12)

12
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front panel for better clamp locations
• If your blade will not fit through the slot because you
have a riving knife fitted to the saw: extend the slot
towards the front of the insert by using a hacksaw
blade or a file on edge
• If one of the clamps fouls the saw motor: replace it with
one of the Temporary Saw Clamps (18) on a shortened
coach bolt
Saw blade cannot be adjusted fully square to the
table
• First, check that the saw does not have a limit screw
in the baseplate, underneath the angle quadrant, that
is preventing you from reaching 0°. Check that nothing
else is fouling the saw motor or top guard, and thus
preventing full tilt
• Check that the mountings between the saw baseplate
and the motor housing are reasonably firm. Tighten
them, if possible, or upgrade your saw
• If you cannot find any other solution, remove your saw
and insert a full length strip of thin packing between
the narrow part of the baseplate and the table, to
slightly tilt the saw. Ideally tape or glue the strip to the
table, then re-tighten the clamp knobs
Very thin saw blades (teeth approx. 1.5mm thick)
Thin slitting blades can be fitted, though we
recommend standard blades approx 2.5mm thick,
because:
• Thin blades are very flexible and are easily bent or
twisted when fitting the saw, making them difficult to
align
• With a thin blade the scales will only be accurate when
the fence is set on the right hand side of the blade. You
will have to make an allowance when setting the fence
to the left
• A thicker blade will not cause the above problems,
and should also give you smoother cuts, less flexing in
dense wood, and better results when planing
NOTE: 1.5mm thin blades cut 2.0 to 2.2mm wide.
If fitting a thin blade saw, insert a strip of 0.5mm
cardboard between the blade and the fence, as a
temporary spacer, and hold the blade against it whilst
aligning the saw. You will not be able to spin the blade
by hand.
Protractor scale is slightly inaccurate
• The scale pointer can be adjusted by using a small
screwdriver to lever out the lens, and then prising the
pointer sideways
• First, make test cuts and adjust the protractor angle
setting until you are cutting exactly square. Then insert
the screwdriver blade into the appropriate slot beside
the pointer, and twist until the tip of the pointer is
exactly opposite 0°
Workpiece binds on overhead guard support when
ripping
• First, check that the fence was set at identical readings
front and rear. If it was, try increasing the rear fence
setting slightly (0.5mm – 1mm) and repeat the cut
• Check that the saw blade is correctly lined up with the
overhead guide support
• Check that the overhead guard support is square to the
table. To square it up: use a straight piece of material,
such as a block of wood, to spread the load as you
carefully bend it square
• If the problem persists: try re-aligning the saw
slightly so that the overhead guard support fits into the
kerf of the blade without jamming
High spots, burn marks and re-cut damage on the
workpiece
If the back of the blade re-cuts or burnishes the
workpiece when you cross-cut against the protractor,
or when you rip against the parallel fence, the most
likely reason is that your saw is mounted slightly skew.
Before realigning your saw, check a few other possible
causes:
• Remove the blade from the saw, check that the arbour
and washers are clean and that the blade is well
seated. If an arbour-reducing washer is fitted, make
sure it is a snug fit and not proud of the blade disc.
• Check for blade flatness with a metal straight
edge at various points across the centre hole. If
significantly buckled, replace the blade
• Check for arbour float in your saw bearings by
disconnecting the power, gripping the blade
nut and pulling in and out in the direction of the
shaft. Any movement is undesirable. If you want
perfectly square cuts, you may have to repair or
replace your saw
Assembly