Woodhaven 7660: Large Half-Blind Router Table Dovetail Jig w/Bit - Manual (Page 3)

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Adjust Clamps:
Slide the Clamps to position the clamp pads on either
side of the stock. Adjust the clamp pads to the stock thick-
ness by holding the clamp pad flat against the stock, then adjust the
nylon knob under the clamp pad until its touches the Ultra Track or
the Template. The clamp pad should be flat against the stock when
adjusted properly, not angled up or down.
The large clamp knobs do not require much pressure to safely
hold parts and overtightening may cause damage. If you notice a
part move, it will usually be a horizontal part (drawer front or back)
clamped to the Template because these parts are more susceptible to
movement. Experiment until you develop a sense of adequate clamp
pressure.
The two Clamps mounted to the Ultra Track have a 1/8" spacer
under the screw head to accommodate 1/2" to 5/8" thick stock. For
3/4" thick stock, you’ll need to remove the 1/8" spacer and adjust the
screw head tight against the clamp pad.
The two Clamps mounted to the Template have the screw head
tight against the clamp pad and never need adjustment.
Test Cut:
Place the drawer side in the jig vertically with its inside
face facing out (outside face against the Ultra Track), the bot-
tom edge against the edge of the Stop with the end resting on the
Template. Slide the clamps as close as possible to the edges of the
part and tighten.
Slide the mating drawer front (or back) horizontally
in between the dovetail template and Ultra Track with its
inside face against the Template (outside face facing up).
Butt the end against the drawer side and index the bottom
edge against the side of the pin in the Stop. Slide the clamps
as close as possible to the edge of the part and tighten.
Set the Template on the router table, without the bit touching
the work or Template. Turn the router on and make a scoring cut from
left to right (as viewed from the back) across the face of the drawer
front by skimming across the ends of the fingers. The scoring cut
helps prevent chipping and tear out during the finish cut. Next, mov-
ing from right to left (as viewed from the back), move the router bit
in and out of each dovetail finger to finish the cut. If you get tear out,
go a little deeper into the Template openings during the scoring cut to
insure that you have scored the entire face of the part.
Sometimes it’s necessary to make a second finish cut due
to sawdust that may have lodged in the Template openings during
the first finish cut. Remove the parts and check the joint fit.
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Drawer Stock:
This jig is designed for 3/8" to 3/4" thick stock up to 11-1/4"
wide and a minimum of 6" long. 1/2" stock is the most com-
mon thickness used for drawers. The stock used for the fronts &
backs can be a different thickness then the stock used for the sides.
All stock should be flat and straight.
We recommend a 1/64" (or less) overhang on each end of the
drawer fronts and backs, so cut them about 1/32" longer than the
desired finished width of the drawer. Cut the drawer sides approxi-
mately 9/16" longer (this will depend on the final cutting depth of the
router bit) than the desired inside length of the drawer. The width of
the stock will depend on a combination of the height of the drawer
opening, desired drawer depth and the pin & socket layout.
For rabbeted drawers, make a drawer with the drawer front the
same wood species as the desired rabbeted drawer front. After assem-
bling the drawer, glue or screw the larger drawer front to the smaller
drawer front. This provides the same appearance as a one-piece rab-
beted drawer, but is quicker and easier to make.
Once the Stop position is set, cut the drawer stock to a width
that will give you a full pin & socket at the top of the drawer.
Use the chart on page 2 as a reference for laying out and mark-
ing the drawer parts. Cut two pieces of 1/2” thick stock about 8" long,
and 4-6" wide for a test cut.
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Clamp Pad fl at
against stock
Nylon Knob
1/8” spacer
Clamp Knob
Ultra Track
Stock
Scoring Cut
Drawer Side
Finish Cut
Drawer Side