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Top Flite Antares User Manual

Page 17

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The connector for the stabilator servo is next Since this
cable is already in place, it's fairly easy to work with.
Thread a clevis onto a connector and snap the clevis in
place on the servo's output arm. Observe the distance
between the rear end of the connector and the cable tube

end—will the connector contact the tube during the oper-
ation of the stab? If so, trim a little length off of the end of
the connector Once satisfied, use a small-tip felt marker
to mark the cable for cutting Carefully cut the cable,
solder the connector in place, re-thread the clevis in place
and set the stab servo for neutral.

Use the remaining 36" cable for the rudder Solder a

connectorto one end of the cable, thread a clevis in place
and install the other end into the fuselage, at the servo
compartment Connect the clevis to the rudder servo, at
neutral trim Thread another clevis onto the remaining

connector and attach the clevis to the center hole on the

rudder horn With the rudder at neutral, use a felt marker

to note the location where the cable should be cut Cut the

cable, remove the clevis from the connector, solder the
connector to the cable, re-thread the clevis in place and
connect to the rudder horn.

Install the receiver by first threading the antenna through

the tube provided and out the exit at the rear of the
fuselage. We used thin foam pads to secure the receiver

in place, on its side as shown on the plans Make all of the
necessary servo connections The switch, as shown on

the plans, is the way we installed it on all of our proto-
types This method eli mi nates the need of cutting into the
fuselage sides and is much "cleaner", not to mention
easier.

Note on the plans that we show a SR 900 Mah battery
pack installation Our experience with the prototypes,

with this battery installation has been outstanding This
pack takes about the same space as a normal 450-500
Mah pack, weighs just a few grams more than these
packs, but has about twice the capacity' Believe us, when

you are spending all day at the flying field and running
four servos, it's nice to know you can rely on your power

source'

Install the battery pack in the nose compartment Thread

the lead and plug through F-3 to the switch Don't pack
the batteries in place yet, do it after you have determined

what is needed in the way of nose weight for balance.

If you are using a releasable towhook, all of the connec-

tions can now be made except for the final one to the
stabilator output arm This last connection is made after
the hand gliding phase and before actual launch

The radio system should now be tested Look for any

"binding" or interference to the operation of the servos—

correct it now The control surfaces are now set up for the
correct amount of movement or "throw" The following
is what we recommend, based on our prototypes and the

way we like to fly We suggest that you at least start with
these surface throws and adjust as needed after some
flying experience:

AILERONS . . ... 1/2" up—1/4" down (see plans)

FLAPS ........... . . 6 0 down—10 up (see plans)
RUDDER,

UNCOUPLED . . . . . . 1-3/4" each direction 3-1/2" total

RUDDER, COUPLED

W/AILERONS . . . . . . . 1-1/4" each direction 2-1/2" total

STAB (MEASURED AT

LEADING EDGE) ...

3/4" up 1/4" down 1/2" total

PRE-FLIGHT

1. CENTER OF GRAVITY (CG)- This is a most, if not the

most important aspect of correctly setting-up this or
any other sailplane The CG shown on the plans—

3-3/16" behind the leading edge of the wing—has

proven to be ideal on our prototypes. We would

caution you not to go aft of this point until such time
as you are familiar with the way the airplane flies.
And this is most important, do not attempt to locate
the towhook further aft than the C G We made a
simple device for balancing our airplanes that you

might want to try It was made with two 10" dowels,
1/4" dia. These were "capped" with pencil erasers and
mounted on a hardwood base which was pre-drilled

for the dowels with a 3" spacing With such a device,
very accurate balance can be achieved.

Add small amounts of lead sheet or shot in front of
and/or beneath the battery pack until balance is
achieved and the airplane rests at level on the balanc-

ing device. Our prototypes have shown that very little
lead is needed to achieve balance. The lead should be
securely but not permanently installed in order to
make/changes neededlater.

2. RADIO AND AIRFRAME INSPECTION: Once again,

check the radio system to be sure that the surfaces

move in the desired direction by radio command and

that the action of the servos is smooth and bind-free.

If you have installed a captive towhook system, test
its operation to be absolutely sure of release on
command

Take the time to inspect the airframe and its various
components Check for warps, looseness of any kind,
etc...Now is the time to correct these kinds of prob-

lems, not at the flying field. Make sure your radio
system's batteries are fully charged and head for the

flying site.

FLYING

From time to time we have heard that this individual or

that individual does not believe in hand-gliding a new
sailplane. We are told that these people simply hook the

airplane up to the launching system and "go for it" We

would have to advise you that this is not recommended.

as far as we're concerned. Let's try a few hand-glides first.

Assuming that the C G is r i g h t and that the radio is on

and functioning, set all of the controls for neutral, zero

flaps and all othertnms in neutral Hold the airplane at the
fuselage, just beneath the wings, over your head. Run or
trot into the wind until you feel the airplane getting

"light" at which time throw it straight and smoothly,

slightly nose down with the wings level The airplane
should glide straight forward at a very flat angle. Try to
remember what commands you felt that you had to give
it to keep it straight, if any. Before making any

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corrections repeat another hand g l i d e

if they are truly necessary Now make any changes to the

trims that you felt were needed and hand-glide once
again This process should be on-going until you have
achieved the long, flat, straight glide that is desired. You
can now hand-launch the airplane a little harder, flatten-
ing it out at the top of its climb and get a little experience

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