Scotsman Flaked Ice Machines - Manual (Page 12)

Bearing and Evaporator Service - all 2 inch brass & 1/10 HP
After the auger has been removed, the bottom half of the water seal and the bottom
bearing will still be in the bottom of the evaporator. To remove them:
1. Remove the evaporator from the adapter stand.
2. Push or tap down on the water seal to remove both parts.
Note: Always replace BOTH bearings AND the water seal when replacing either part.
Ball bearing type: The top bearing can be removed by a press if the bearing is intact. If
the inner race slips out of the bearing, the entire bearing retainer/breaker with a new
bearing must be installed.
Note: The bearing cannot be greased in the field. Overfilling with grease will cause
bearing failure.
Roller bearing type: The bearing can be replaced. See page 19.
Coupling Removal
The coupling that connects the auger splines to the output shaft of the gear reducer
usually stays on the gear reducer when the auger is removed. The splines are
pre-lubricated at the factory and can also be lubricated in the field using the grease
fitting on the side.
Occasionally the coupling will stick to the output shaft and resist removal. In those
cases use of a two or three jaw puller is recommended to remove the coupling.
Evaporator Inspection
The brass evaporator shouldn't need to be replaced unless the auger has come into
contact with the inside wall. The inside wall contains vertical grooves or rifling that can
be used as a guide to determine if the evaporator can be salvaged. Shallow marks from
the auger can be honed and sanded out. However, if the auger has gouged the
evaporator wall as deep as the vertical groove, the evaporator should be replaced.
Evaporator Service
The brass evaporator can be honed using an automotive cylinder hone, followed by
vertical sanding to remove the honing marks. All marks on the inside of the evaporator
wall must be vertical.
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