Delta 46-715 - Manual (Page 14)

CUTTING A SHOULDER
Use the parting tool first to reduce the wood to within
1/16" of the required shoulder and diameter (Fig. 43).
Clean the waste stock out with the gouge (Fig. 44), then
use the skew for the actual cutting of the shoulder (Fig.
45), which is a duplication of squaring an end. The skew
then makes the horizontal cut, but in a different manner
from plain cylinder work. If the shoulder is long, use the
ordinary skew position for the outer portion of the cut.
At the angle between the horizontal and vertical cuts,
the heel of the chisel moves into a position tangent
between the skew and the cylinder (Fig. 46). In this
position, raise the handle of the chisel slightly to allow it
to cut while the tool moves along the rest. Use a very
light cut to produce smooth work. The heel of the skew
can be used for making the entire cut, if desired, but the
cut, whether in this position or any other position, should
not be picked up directly at the end of the stock.
Horizontal cuts started directly from the end of the work
will have a tendency to bite into the wood, often ruining
the entire piece. Always run off the end and not into it.
Where a very short shoulder makes this impossible, use
the skew in a flat scraping position. If the cutting tech-
nique is used, engage only with the heel of skew in a
very light cut.
Fig. 46
Fig. 45
Fig. 43
CUTTING SMALL BEADS
Beads can be scraped or cut. Using the spear chisel is
the easiest method of scraping, and works best on
beads separated by parting tool cuts (Fig. 46). Scraping
is slower than cutting and is not as clean, but it has the
advantage of protecting the work from long gashes.
Cutting beads quickly and accurately with the small
skew is one of the most difficult lathe operations.
Various working methods can be used . The first cut is a
vertical incision at a point where the two curved surfaces
will eventually come together. Make this cut with either
heel or toe of skew. Fig. 47 shows the use of the toe.
Place the skew at right angles to the work. The chisel is
flat on its side at the start, and is evenly rotated through
the successive stages of the cut (Figs. 48, 49 and 50). At
the same time, the chisel is pulled slightly backward to
maintain the cutting point. The entire cut is made with
the heel of chisel. The opposite side of the bead is cut in
the same manner, one cut serving to produce the full
shape in each instance. This action produces beads that
are beautifully smooth and polished, and the technique
is well worth mastering.
Fig. 47
Fig. 50 Fig. 49
Fig. 48
Fig. 49
14
Fig. 44
Fig. 45