Woodhaven 8536: 3.5 Inch Hinge Jig w/ 5/8 Inch Radius - Manual

BEFORE BEGINNING
Identify and verify that you have all the parts listed.
Read the instructions at least once before beginning.
ASSEMBLY
Cut a wood fence to mount the Hinge Jig to.
The wood fence should be approximately 3/4" thick, 1-
1/4" wide and 12" long. You can make the wood fence
longer if you want to mount more then one Hinge Jig to
a fence and cut two or more hinge mortises at a time.
Drill two 1/8" pilot holes in the edge of the wood fence 6-
3/8" on center. Mount the Hinge Jig to the wood fence using the
3/16" Washers (WS003) and 3/4" Screws (STP001). See fig. 1.
Place the 1/4" Spacers (BUSH002) on the 1/2" Thumb Screws
(5503) and screw them in to the two holes of the Hinge Jig shown.
The remaining two holes in the Hinge Jig are for storing the thumb
screws & spacers when not needed. Place the Hinge Jig on the
edge of the door so it's sandwiched between the two spacers and
the wood fence, snug the wood fence against the door and tighten
the screws. This positions the hinge 1/4" from the back of the
door and insures that the wood fence is square and parallel on the
Hinge Jig. You can leave the thumb screws/spacers in place when
routing doors, but you'll need to remove them for jambs. See fig. 2.
The 1/4" backset margin is an industry standard, but you
can change it by adjusting the wood fence forward or back
in relation to the spacers. If a different backset is needed,
cut a 1/4" thick x 8" long spacer to the width required to
position the hinge in the desired location. Place it between
the spacers and the wood fence to set the backset
USING THE JIG ON A JAMB WITHOUT A STOP
Mark the strike plate location on the jamb. The Strike
Plate Jig is 1/8" wider (1/16" on each side) then the actual strike
plate opening it cuts. Position the Strike Plate Jig so its edges
are 1/16" from the strike plate location marks, or make the
strike plate marks 1/8" further apart to correspond to the actual
opening in the Strike Plate Jig. Clamp the Strike Plate Jig to
the jamb using the wood fence and two clamps. See fig. 1.
8536
Hinge Jig
Please Read Carefully!
1
Attach spacers here
Parts List:
Part Description Quantity
8536 3-1/2" Hinge Jig w/5/8" radius . . . . . . . . . 1
STP001 #8 x 3/4" Screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
WS003 3/16" Washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
BUSH002 1/4" Spacers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
5503 1/2" Thumb Screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
1
2
Install our 8500 Hinge Bit (1/2" diameter with a 5/8" bearing
and a 1/4" cut length), or a 1/2" bit (13416) and 5/8" bushing
(5030K), in your router. If using the 8500 Hinge Bit, make sure
the bearing rides firmly on the edge of the jig before attempting
any cuts. Since the cutting depth for locks is shallow (usually
1/8" or less), either a standard or plunge router will work. Set the
cutting depth of the bit, taking into account the thickness of the jig.
Plunge or tilt the router bit into the approximate center
of the jig opening, moving in a small clockwise circle as you
do so to cut a relief opening. With the router base riding
firmly on the jig, move towards an edge of the jig opening.
Moving clockwise, follow the jig until the outline has been
cut. Make clean up passes to remove any remaining material.
After making the first cut, the wood fence will have a
cut out area that corresponds to the strike plate size. You can
use this cut out area to position the jig on the next parts.