Top Flite Holy Smoke - Manual (Page 7)

29. Locate and remove the W-8 ailerons from their die-
cut sheet. Glue lengths of 1/8" x 1/4 "balsa on each of
their ends as shown for stiffening. Tape these in
place to the trailing edge of the wing. Locate the 1/8"
x 1-3/4 " x 20" elevator piece and likewise, reinforce
each end with lengths of 1/8" x 1/4" balsa. Trim the
elevator as needed to fit snuggly between the
ailerons; we recommend about 1/16" spacing.
Remove these surfaces, sand them smooth and set
them aside for covering.
30. Use a slow cure epoxy to now glue the fin in place on
top of the wing. Apply adhesive liberally to those
areas of the tab that will contact W-10 and the bot-
tom sheeting as well as the bottom surface which
contacts the top sheeting. Squeegee off any excess
glue when the piece is in place. Use a 90° triangle
and tape to make absolutely sure that the fin is posi-
tioned squarely in place when viewed from the top
and that it is truly at 90 degrees vertical to the wing
itself. Allow this structure to cure completely.
Although not shown, we have included a length of
1/4" triangular stock which some of you may wish to
use to further strengthen the fin/wing joint. While we
have found this to be unnecessary, we understand
that some of you might like a fillet in this area.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
1. We have provided your kit with eight nylon hinges. If
you wish to hinge the flight surfaces with these now
is the time to carefully slot the surfaces themselves
and the trailing edge. An alternate method of hing-
ing these surfaces is the use of Monokote. These
hinges are incredibly strong, color co-ordinated and
exceedingly effective aerodynamically. They are so
effective that the surface movements must be cut
down about 25%.
2. Locate the four metal landing gear straps and the
eight #2 x 3/8" wood screws used to retain them. As
shown on the plans, position the straps across the
landing skid slots and use an X-acto knife to clear-
out the balsa down to the hardwood, two straps for
each skid. Use a 1/16" drill bit to drill guide holes
through the hardwood blocks and secure the straps
with the #2 wood screws. Remove the screws and
straps for assembly when the airplane is covered.
3. As shown on the plans, assemble the nose gear with
the steering arm and the top and bottom retaining
wheel collars in place on the nose of the wing. File or
grind small "flats" in the nose gear wire to accept
the wheel collar's set screws, once you are satisfied
with the fit and movement. Remove these parts and
set them aside for assembly after covering.
4. Drill the appropriate holes through W-9 for your fuel
lines. A typical no-nonsense system is the two-line
set-up. This is where the fuel line from the tank's
clunk pick-up goes to the engine's carb and also is
used for filling the tank. The second line goes to the
engine's muffler nipple to provide tank pressure and
is also used for overflow when the tank is being fill-
ed. You might want to use some of those pieces of
triangular stock supplied to position the tank in
place. We have also found it helpful to wrap a little
strapping tape around the tank, lengthwise, leaving
a little "pull-tab" at the end to facilitate removing it
whenever needed.
COVERING
The Holy Smoke 40 really lends itself to the use of
Monokote for covering. Besides being light, colorful and
strong, Monokote is totally fuel-proof and easily
repairable.
Why not try a really wild trim or color scheme on your
H.S.40? On our prototypes we have done one color
scheme on the top and a totally different one on the bot-
tom. Think about it! At the speeds this airplane flies, it is
comforting to know which end is up!
Once your color scheme has been decided, cover each
component separately; the wing/fin itself, the ailerons,
elevator and hatch cover. Once the covering is all in
place, clear-out the exit locations for the antenna tube,
the ailerons, the slot for the elevator pushrod, the lan-
ding skid slots and the nose gear steering cable. Apply a
couple of coats of polyester resin to the engine compart-
ment area, carefully covering any area where Monokote
has been overlapped—this will permanently seal those
edges. You can then paint the engine compartment area.
We recommend the use of two-part epoxy paints but
there are several one-part paints that are on the market
which will match Monokote.
Clear-out the slots made earlier for the ailerons and
elevator and hinge these surfaces to the trailing edge of
the wing. A few small holes drilled in the hinges
themselves will let the epoxy use to glue them in place,
act as nails.
RADIO INSTALLATION & PRE-FLIGHT
1. Install all three servos. Using the cables with the
connectors soldered in place for the ailerons, screw
the couplers into the nylon dual take-off ball fitting.
There should be plenty of excess cable protruding
from the aileron ends of the tubes Center your ser-
vo. Slip a piece of card stock underneath the pro-
truding cable and cut-off the excess cable with a car-
bide cut-off wheel. Now solder the brass coupler in
place to the cable and thread one of the black nylon
clevises in place on the coupler Repeat this pro-
cedure on the other aileron As shown, mount the
nylon horns on each aileron and connect the
clevises to the outer-most holes.
2. Use the above method to now connect the steering
cable to the steering arm on the nose gear. First
mount the nose gear to the nose; then make the
clevis connection to the opposite output arm of the
aileron servo. Cut-off the excess cable, solder the
brass connector in place and complete the connec-
tion with a black nylon clevis.
3. The elevator connection is made next. Slide the
elevator pushrod through the hole in W-10 and out
the slot on the bottom. Install the large nylon
elevator horn to the elevator at a position correspon-
ding to the slot. Thread the large nylon clevis on the
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