Top Flite Holy Smoke - Manual (Page 2)

cannot be exceeded. We urge you to:
1.Send for and obtain your AMA (Academy of Model
Aeronautics) membership which will provide in-
surance for your R/C activities — DO NOT RELY ON
HOMEOWNERS INSURANCE.
2. Join an AMA sanctioned R/C flying club in your area
where you can obtain competent, professional in-
struction in trimming and learning how to fly this
model.
Check with your favorite local hobby shop for the re-
quired AMA forms or the address where they can be ob-
tained.
WARNING!!!
A radio controlled model is not a "toy." Care and
caution must be taken in properly building the
model, as well as in the installation and use of the
radio control device. It is important to follow all
directions as to the construction of this kit as well
as installation and use of the engine and radio
gear. The advice and assistance of a well ex-
perienced builder and pilot is highly recommend-
ed. Don't take chances! Improper building, opera-
tion, or flying of this model could result in serious
bodily injury to others, yourself, or property
damage.
PRO-CONSTRUCTION NOTES
The Holy Smoke 40, like other Top Flite kits employs the
use of die-cut wood to ease the task of construction,
parts fit and identification. The dies used for this kit
have been rigorously checked for absolute accuracy
and should provide you with excellent fit. Die-cut parts
should be carefully removed from their sheets by first
lightly sanding the back of each sheet of parts and then
carefully removing each part. Use a light garnet paper
for the sanding and keep a sharp hobby knife with an
X-acto #11 blade, or equivalent, handy for assistance in
removing any parts that might not have completely cut-
through by the dies. Parts which oppose one another
and must be precisely uniform—such as ribs,
etc.—should be carefully "matched" after their removal
from the part sheets. Matching is the process of holding
the opposing pieces together with either pins, tape or
spot gluing and lightly sanding the edges of the parts un-
til they are identical. A sanding block with light garnet
paper is most useful for this and other phases of con-
struction.
Your building surface should be at least large enough to
accommodate the wing. This surface should be as ab-
solutely flat as possible and yet be able to accept pins
easily. We have found that a product such as Celotex
fiber board works quite well for this purpose. Another
good surface can be found in most well-stocked hard-
ware stores—a 2' x 4' fiber board ceiling tile. These are
quite inexpensive and can be used for several airplanes
before needing replacement.
As with most R/C kits that are constructed from wood, a
selection of tools—most of which can be found in the
average workshop—are a must to do the job correctly:
• Hobby knife and sharp #11 blades
• Single-edge razor blades
• T-pins
• Sanding blocks in assorted sizes
• Sandpaper in various grits
• Hand-held hobby saw, such as an X-acto
• Dremel tool or power drill and assorted drill bits
• Straight-edge, preferably metal, at least 36" long
• 90" triangle
• Soldering iron, flux (silver) and solder
• Carbide cut-off wheel for wire cutting
• Small power jig-saw, such as a Moto-Saw
• Razor plane
• Tapes, such as masking and cellophane
Our Holy Smoke 40's were constructed using a variety of
common hobby adhesives including 5-minute epoxy,
cyano-acrylates, aliphatic resin (such as Titebond) and
1-hour epoxy. Since all of us have our own construction
techniques and favorite adhesives, stick with the ones
that you are familiar with and prefer. However, in certain
areas there will be callouts for certain types of
adhesives, and we urge you to try not to substitute since
doing so could possibly cause problems structurally.
The last thing we should touch on before we begin ac-
tual construction is the sequence in which the Holy
Smoke 40 is assembled. The sequence given to you in
this booklet has been proven to be the most straight-
forward and provides the finished components in the
order that you will need them to progress to the next
assembly phase. Try to stick with the building order
presented here to avoid mistakes.
Spread the plans out on your work surface, cover them
with a clear plastic material, such as the backing from a
roll of Monokote or plastic wrap and commence con-
struction.
LEADING EDGE CRUTCH ASSEMBLY
The Leading Edge Crutch serves to "tie together" all ten
of the wing ribs and align them at the same time. This
assembly should be built flat over the plans. Be sure that
your plans are covered with either the clear backing from
a roll of Monokote or a clear food wrapping material.
1. From your kit box, locate the two pieces of 1/8" x
1-3/16" x 28" balsa sheets that will become the leading
edge crutches. Lay these directly over the plans and
carefully cut each end to fit as shown. The outer end
is cut to fit against the inside face of tip rib W-5 while
the inner end is cut at an angle corresponding with
the centerline of the airplane. Once satisfied with
the fit over the plans, glue the two crutch pieces
together at the center, pin parts accurately over the
plans.
2. From your die-cut sheet RC-34-2, carefully remove
parts W-6A and W-6B. Glue W-6A to W-6B to form a
triangle. Fit the finished W-6A/B part in place direct-
ly behind the leading edge crutch assembly at the
center. You might have to lightly sand this assembly
for a nice fit. Once satisfied, glue this part in place,
directly over the plans.
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