Top Flite Elder 40 - Manual (Page 5)

4. Remove the stab and elevators from the plans. Build
the fin next in the same manner using the R-1 and R-2
die-cut pieces with 1/4" sq. and 1/4" x 1/2" balsa frames
shown. Cut the rudder to shape from the remainder
of the 1/4 " x 1 - 3 / 4 " balsa stock used for the elevators.
Position the rudder in place to the back of the fin and
glue R-3 in place to the leading edge of the rudder.
Remove the parts from your building board.
5. Using the 3/32" x 1/4" balsa provided, cap strip both
sides of the fin and stab assemblies as shown on the
• plans. Be sure, when capping the lower edge of the
fin, to leave a distance of 3/32" from the bottom to
allow the fin to fit into the slot between the two top
S-3 caps. Glue the two S-3 caps to the upper surface
of S-2, leaving a 1/4" gap at the centerline for the fin.
Test-fit the fin in place o n top of the stab. With the fin
still in place, cut, fit and glue the forward 3/32" x 1/4"
cap strip in place forward of the fin. Remove the fin.
6. The elevators, stab, fin and rudder are now final-
sanded to shape. Start by using masking tape to
mount the elevators to the stab. Use a sanding block
to go over all of the outside surfaces to carefully
match them. Lay the stab on a flat working surface,
masking tape down, and use the sanding block to
sand it flat. Use the sanding block to taper the
elevators as shown on one side. Tape the
stab/elevator hinge line, turn the stab over, remove
the tape from this side, and repeat the process. The
same method is used for the fin and rudder. Once
complete, use sandpaper to round the leading
edges. Set these parts aside for covering and
assembly to the fuselage.
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
Before starting construction, study the plans and draw-
ings to familiarize yourself with how the fuselage is
assembled. Note that it really is nothing more than a
basic "box" fuselage with semi-formers in the nose area
to create the rounded cowling effect. This simple and ef-
fective way of making a fuselage can only be ruined in
one way; building it crooked. This can be done by not
making the fuselage side frames identical and/or mis-
sizing the top and bottom cross braces. Another com-
mon error is to make improper joints. The Elder relies a
great deal on the strength of its frame—make those
joints fit correctly! Note also that the uprights and cross
braces are a mix of both spruce and balsa. These are
notated.
1. Locate and remove die-cut parts F-5 and F-9, two of
each. Securely pin F-5 in place directly over your
covered fuselage plan. Note that the bottom aft
spruce longeron terminates in the rear notch in part
F-5. Disregard the curve of this longeron for now.
2. Pin F-9 in place directly over the plans. Measure and
cut the top rear spruce longeron that fits in place
from the back of the "tab" on F-9 aft to the tail post.
(A tool such as an X-acto mitre box and razor saw is
quite good for cutting spruce.) Glue the top rear
longeron in place to F-9.
3. As you can see from the plans and building sket-
ches, the top 1/4" sq. spruce longeron fits in place
from the front edge of the 1/4" x 1" x 3-5/8" ply wing
hold-down former. Eventually, when it is installed,
this ply former will be backed-up with a 3
3
3/8" length
of 1/4" x 1/2" balsa. Hold this former on edge with a
piece of 1/4" x 1/2" behind it and mark its forward loca-
tion on F-9. Cut a length of 1/4" sq. spruce to fit from
this mark forward to the front face of the firewall-
glue in place to F-9.
4. Cut, fit and glue the four required 1/4" x 1/2" balsa
uprights from Cross-Section B-B back to and in-
cluding the one beneath the "tab" on part F-9—note
that the bottom, rear longeron will need to be block-
ed in place as the bottom, rear curve starts. As
shown on the plans, a 1/4" balsa doubler is made to
fit inside of the fuselage frame, at the nose, between
F-5 and the top longeron and against the front of the
1/4" x 1/2" upright at Section B-B. This doubler is cut to
fit 1/4" behind the top longeron in order to accept the
firewall. Glue this doubler in place.
5. Cut, fit and glue in place the rearmost 1/4" sq. spruce
tailpost upright—be sure that the correct angle is
also trimmed into its lower end for the bottom
longeron. With the frame firmly secured to the
building board, bend the bottom longeron up to meet
the rearmost upright that was just installed. Glue
and securely block this longeron in place.
6. Cut, fit and glue in place all remaining spruce
uprights while bending and block-pinning the bot-
tom, rear longeron in place as you go. This com-
pletes the basic fuselage side frame. Now make a
second, identical frame. Be absolutely sure that
they're identical by building the second frame
directly on top of the first, carefully covering the first
frame with Monokote backing or food wrap.
7. Hold or tape the two completed frames together and
use your sanding block to make sure they are iden-
tical. Separate them and sand their sides smooth
(both sides) with the sanding block.
8. Note on the side view of the plans for the fuselage
that there are six 1/4" x 1/2" balsa cross-brace loca-
tions shown (numbered 1 through 6). All of these
cross-braces, with the exception of #3 (directly
beneath the wing's trailing edge) are 3-1/8" long.
Carefully cut all five to length. #3 is 3-5/8" long,cut
this one as well. Carefully position the two fuselage
frames upside down, over the top view of the plans.
Block or pin as needed to hold them in place at right
angles to your work surface. (NOTE: Due to the slight
incidence angle in these frames, they will not fit flat
to the surface. This is not important at this time.)
Locate two of the1/4" x 1" x3-5/8" ply formers. Epoxy
these in place in the notches located on the bottoms
of the F-5's. Glue bottom cross-braces 4, 5 and 6 in
place between the two fuselage frames and allow to
set. Remove the frame from the work surface, turn it
over and install the three remaining cross-braces, 1,
2 and 3 in place. Now epoxy the remaining 1/4" x 1" x
3-5/8" ply wing hold-down former in place on top of
F-9.
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