Top Flite Elder 40 - Manual (Page 4)

6. In this step we want to prepare each of the required
components—the top and bottom spars, the 3 / 8 " x
1/2" front LE. and the rear 1/4" x 3/8" T.E.—with the
proper dihedral angle at their inboard ends. The
cross-section of the wing that is shown on the plans
is ideal forthis purpose. Simply lay, for instance, the
bottom 1/4" x 1/2" balsa spar in place over this draw-
ing. Note that the outboard end is cut at 90 degs.; but
that the inboard end must be cut at an angle to
achieve the required 3/4" per panel dihedral angle.
Make two of these bottom spars. Now repeat this
process with the top spars, the leading edges and
the trailing edges (note that the length of the leading
edges is developed from the top view of the wing
plan). The inboard edges of the 1/4" x "I
1
1/2" lower
leading edges should be first cut at 90 degs. and
then slightly chamfered to match the needed
dihedral angle.
7. Start construction by first pinning the 1/4" x 1-1/2"
lower leading edges in place, directly over the plans.
Note that the inboard edges of these two parts ter-
minate at the outer edges of the two outboard
W-1A's. Next, pin the 3/32" x 1" bottom trailing edge
planking in place. Now glue the 1/4" x 3/8" trailing
edges in place on the top, rear of the 3/32" trailing
edge bottom sheet. Now cut, fit and glue each of the
3/32" x 1/4" bottom cap strips which sit beneath each
of the W-2A's, W-3's and W-4's—pin these in place
over the plan to keep them from shifting. Using the
3/32" sheet balsa provided, measure, cut and glue the
inboard bottom wing sheeting in place—note grain
direction. Glue the W-6 wingtips in place. Now glue
and pin the bottom spar in place (angled end in-
board) on the bottom wing sheet and the cap strips.
Now glue all W-2A, W-3 and W-4 wing ribs in place.
Make sure that these are at right angles to your work
surface—pin and allow to dry.
8. Glue all of the W-5 angled ribs in place. NOTE:Toob-
tain a flush fit, use your sanding block to chamfer the
forward ends of the W-5 ribs where they contact the
W-3 rib sides.
9. Glue all of the wingtip braces (W-7, W-8, W-9, W-10
and W-15) in place on the W-6 wingtip sheet. Note
that W-7, W-9 and W-10 need to have their inboard
ends chamfered with a sanding block to fit flush to
t h e o u t e r f a c e o f W - 3 .
10. Now take the center section which was assembled
earlier and fit i t t o o n e o f t h e w i n g panels.Tilt it until
thetwoarmsoftheW-11 plydihedral braces fit flush
to the front and rear bottom sheeting and the center
brace is correctly positioned against the bottom
spar. Check this fit to be sure all components fit
nicely. Trim as needed to get proper fit. Prop and/or
pinthiscenter section inthispositionasyouwill use
it as a guide for the remaining wing panel parts.
Remember not to glue anything to the center section
yet; it's only in place for spacing purposes.
11. Glue the front 3/8" x 1/2" leading edge in place on top
of the lower 1/4" x 1 -1/2" leading edge and against the
front of each full and half rib (angled end inboard to
fit against tilted center section). Glue the top 1/4" x
1/2" spar in place (angled end inboard). Cut, fit and
glue the 3/32" x 1" leading and trailing edge planking
in place—pinortapetohold. Remove the center sec-
tion from the wing panel and repeat the above steps
on the remaining panel.
12. Cut, fit and glue all of the remaining top 3/32" x 1/4"
cap strips in place on all of the ribs and half ribs.
13. Remove the wing panels from the work surface. In-
spect them for any dried globs of glue, remove these
with a #11 X-acto knife. Tape or hold the two wing
panels together with the bottoms of each facing the
other—align carefully. Use your sanding block to
now shape the forward wingtips identically with
each other and the curves shown on the plans. With
the exception of the inboard ends, use your sanding
block to carefully "match" the wing panels, leading
edges, tips and trailing edges. Separate the panels
and use a sanding block with light paper over all of
the panels' surfaces to smooth them for covering
later (after final assembly).
14. Note on the plans, the points shown for the 1/4" sq.
spruce flying wire anchor points. These are full rib
depth. If it is your intention to use these optional
wires on your model, cut and glue these anchor
points in place at this time. Set aside the completed
wing panels for final assembly later.
TAIL GROUP
The tail group of your Elder is built directly over the plans
in a quite straight-forward manner. Note there are op-
tions open to you with these parts in terms of shape. The
stab's gentle curves which terminate in sharp points at
the trailing edge of the elevators give a certain "look,"
which can be changed by rounding the outboard trailing
edges of the elevators. This "softens" the look of these
shapes. The same thing can be done to the fin and rud-
der, top and bottom—looks nice. As shown, you can
also scallop the trailing edges of the rudder and
elevators to give yet another different look.
1. Start with the stab. Build it directly over the plans
which have been covered with the clear backing
from Monokote or food wrap. Position the two S-1
tips in place and the center S-2 as well; pin. From the
1/4" x 1/2" balsa stock provided, cut, fit and glue in
place the two leading edges and the trailing edge.
Using the same material, cut and glue in place the
"cap" in front of S-2, thus completing the stab
outline.
2. Cut, fit carefully and glue the 1/4 "sq. balsa ribs (three
per side) in place. Use short lengths of 1/4" x 1/2" stock
to make the fillets—note grain direction.
3. From the1/4" x 1-3/4" balsa stock provided, measure
and cut the two elevators. Notch them as shown to
accept the 1/4" dia. dowel elevator joiner. With the
stab still in position on the work surface, pin the
elevator halves in place. Protect the trailing edge of
the stab with a strip of waxed paper and epoxy the
dowel joiner in place in the notches—allow to set
completely.
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