Warrior 30851 - JK 3” Coil Spring Lift Kit (2007 – 2013 Jeep JK Wrangler) - Manual (Page 3)

Protecting Your Adventure Lifestyle
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QUALITY • INTEGRITY • INNOVATION • SERVICE
Warrior, Inc.
16850 SW Upper Boones Ferry Rd
Ste. A
Durham, OR 97224
Phone: (888) 220-6861
Fax: (503) 692-0364
[email protected]
www.warriorproducts.com
1. Locate your rear control arms. These are the shorter straight pair of control arms. Left and right sides
are interchangeable, so you just need to be sure the zerks are pointing a direction where you will be able
to access them. Bolt these arms into place re-using the factory mounting hardware. You may need an
assistant to push down on the axle pinion to get your bolt holes to line up, as your new arms are 3/16”
longer than the factory arm.
2. Locate your rear coil springs. Slide these into place, and using the supplied 2_” washer and bolt/nut,
secure the coil spring to the axle. These washers act as a retainer, so the spring cannot fall out of place.
3. Raise the axle to hold the coil springs in place on the upper frame end rubber isolators. Make sure these
are lining up properly as you raise the axle.
4. Locate your rear panhard bar relocation kit. Follow the instructions included with this kit to install the
bracket.
5. Locate your new anti-sway bar end links. Re-use the axle end hardware to bolt them into place, and then
the new supplied hardware to bolt the upper end in place.
6. Locate your rear shocks, and assemble the boots and decals as you did to the fronts in step 6 of phase 2.
7. On the rear, we use a brake line extension bracket to lower the brake lines, locate this kit. Your brake
line bracket that you unbolted earlier, will bolt to this bracket with supplied hardware, and then the bracket
will bolt into the factory location.
8. You have now completed the rear suspension installation. Double check to ensure that every bolt is
securely tightened, then re-install your tires, remove the jack stands, and lower the vehicle back onto the
ground.
INSTALLATION FINISH CHECKS - Phase 5: Final Prep
1. It is very important that everything be double checked before driving the vehicle. Start by going thru
every bolt removed and installed, as well as the new bolts added and check for tightness. This chart
makes a good reference for how tight bolts should be.
STANDARD BOLT TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
INCH SYSTEM METRIC SYSTEM
Grade 5 Grade 8 Bolt Size Class 9.8 Class 10.9 Class 12.9
5/16 15 Ft – Lbs 20 Ft – Lbs M 6 5 Ft – Lbs 9 Ft – Lbs 12 Ft – Lbs
3/8 30 Ft – Lbs 35 Ft – Lbs M 8 18 Ft – Lbs 23 Ft – Lbs 27 Ft – Lbs
7/16 45 Ft – Lbs 60 Ft – Lbs M10 32 Ft – Lbs 45 Ft – Lbs 50 Ft – Lbs
_ 65 Ft – Lbs 90 Ft – Lbs M12 55 Ft – Lbs 75 Ft – Lbs 90 Ft – Lbs
9/16 95 Ft – Lbs 130 Ft – Lbs M14 85 Ft – Lbs 120 Ft – Lbs 145 Ft – Lbs
5/8 135 Ft – Lbs 175 Ft – Lbs M16 130 Ft – Lbs 165 Ft – Lbs 210 Ft – Lbs
_ 185 Ft – Lbs 280 Ft – Lbs M18 170 Ft – Lbs 240 Ft – Lbs 290 Ft – Lbs
2. Grease all zerks. Your new control arms have a zerk at each end (8 total). Make sure to grease each
one.
3. Check all wheels for tightness. It is very easy to miss tightening a wheel.
4. Adjust your draglink for steering wheel straightness. The rod connecting your pitman arm to your
passenger steering knuckle has an adjuster, held tight by two nuts. You can loosen these nuts and then
simply spin the adjuster. Take some time to get it as straight as possible. If the steering wheel is not
pointing straight when the wheels are pointing straight, the ESP system in your vehicle may malfunction,
causing strange braking issues while driving. (Note: This will not damage your vehicle, but will continue
until the adjustment is made properly) It is strongly suggested that you immediately take your vehicle to a
shop for a professional alignment.
5. Test drive to check for any vibrations and looseness. If you experience any issues in this regard, return to
your shop immediately and re-check all bolts and nuts.