Vectronics VEC-1016K - Manual (Page 2)

[ ] Soldering Iron (grounded-tip and temperature-controlled preferred)
[ ] High-temperature Iron Holder with Cleaning Sponge
[ ] Rosin-core Solder (thin wire-size preferred)
[ ] Needle Nose Pliers or Surgical Hemostats
[ ] Diagonal Cutters or "Nippy Cutters"
[ ] Solder Sucker, Vacuum Pump, or Desoldering Braid
[ ] Bright Desk Lamp
[ ] Magnifying Glass
Special Tools for This Kit:
[ ] Insulated hex-head tuning wand
[ ] Small flat-blade screwdriver or tuning wand
[ ] Voltmeter, digital or analog
[ ] "Low-band" VHF antenna
(5) Before You Start Building:
Experience shows there are four common mistakes builders commonly make. Avoid
these, and your kit will probably work on the first try! Here's what they are:
Installing the Wrong Part: It always pays to double-check each step. A 1K and a 10K
resistor may look almost the same, but they typically act very differently in an electronic
circuit! Same for capacitors--a device marked 102 (or .001 uF) may have very different
operating characteristics from on marked 103 (or .01uF).
Installing Parts Backwards: Always check the polarity of electrolytic capacitors to
make sure the positive (+) lead goes in the (+) hole on the circuit board. Transistors have
a flat side or emitter tab to help you identify the correct mounting position. ICs have a
notch or dot at one end indicating the correct direction of insertion. Diodes have a
banded end indicating correct polarity. Always double-check--especially before applying
power to the circuit!
Faulty Solder Connections: Inspect for cold-solder joints and solder bridges. Cold
solder joints happen when you don't fully heat the connection--or when metallic corrosion
and oxide contaminate a component lead or pad. Solder bridges form when a trail of
excess solder shorts pads or tracks together (see solder tips below).