Novak GTB 2 Basic Set-Up -- NEW (button on corner of PC board) (1785) - Manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Part #1785
STEP 3
SPECIFICATIONS
PRECAUTIONS
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
Input Voltage 4-6 cells (1.2 volts DC/cell)
Motor Limit None
Case Width 1.37 inches [3.48 cm]
Case Depth 1.11 inches [2.82 cm]
Case Height 0.66 inch [1.68 cm]
Weight (w/o wires) 0.93 ounce [26.26 g]
On-Resistance @ Transistors 0.00058 Ω
Rated Drive Current 640 amps
Rated Braking Current 160 amps
BEC Voltage 6.0 volts DC
BEC Current 3.0 amps
Wire Length (Battery/Motor) 9 inches [22.86 cm]
Signal Harness (replaceable) 9 inches [22.86 cm]
Throttle Programs 7 (6 fixed/1 adjustable)
Drive Profiles 1 of 5 (in Program 7)
Brake Profiles 1 of 5 (in Program 7)
Minimum Brake (all Programs) 1 of 7 (20-55%)
PWM Frequency 1-23 kHz
@ 25 ° C transistor
junction temp.
POWER CAPACITORS [#5675]
An external power capacitor is included, and MUST BE USED
to maintain cool and smooth operation. Refer to Step 3
Replacement Power Capacitor is available in Novak kit #5675.
SCHOTTKY DIODES [#5640]
The GT7 requires an external Schottky diode on the motor. The
external Schottky diode optimizes the speed control’s braking
and motor performance. Refer to Step 3
Additional Schottky diodes are available in Novak kit #5640.
MOTOR CAPACITORS [#5620]
Additional motor capacitors are available in Novak kit #5620.
BATTERY/MOTOR 14G POWER WIRE [#5500 & 5505]
Replacement GT7 power wire is available in Novak kits #5500
(36”red & 36”black) & #5505 (36”red & 36”blue).
INPUT SIGNAL HARNESS [#5315 & 5320]
The user-replaceable input signal harness is available in both
short (4.5”) and long (9.0”) lengths to fit different applications.
4.5” harness in Novak kit #5315, and 9.0” harness in kit #5320.
GT7 REPLACEMENT TRANSLUCENT CASE [#5680]
Replacement GT7 case is available in Novak kit #5680, and
includes the slide-mount Power Capacitor brackets.
• WATER & ELECTRONICS DON’T MIX! Never allow
water, moisture, or other foreign materials to get inside
the speed control or on the PC Board.
• 4 TO 6 CELLS ONLY Never use fewer than 4 or more
than 6 cells (7.2 volts DC) in the main battery pack.
• POWER CAPACITOR REQUIRED An external power
capacitor is supplied, and MUST be used with your GT7.
Failure to use Power Capacitor will damage speed control
and void the warranty!
• SCHOTTKY DIODE REQUIRED An external Schottky
diode is supplied, and MUST be properly installed on every
motor to reduce radio interference and obtain the best
performance and efficiency from your GT7.
• NO REVERSE VOLTAGE! Reverse battery polarity can
damage speed control––Disconnect battery immediately.
• DISCONNECT BATTERIES WHEN NOT IN USE Always
disconnect the battery pack from the speed control when
not in use to avoid short circuits and possible fire hazard.
• TRANSMITTER ON FIRST Always turn on the power of
your transmitter first so that you will have control of the
radio equipment when you turn on the speed control.
• INSULATE WIRES Always insulate exposed wiring with
heat shrink tubing to prevent short circuits.
• NO SOLVENTS Exposing the speed control’s case to any
type of solvents will damage the plastic.
1. MOTOR CAPACITORS
Electric motors generate RF noise that causes interference.
The included 0.1
µ F (50V) non-polarized, ceramic capacitors
must be installed on every motor to help reduce the
motor noise and also to prevent possible ESC damage.
Note: Some motors come with capacitors built-in. If your motor
only has two capacitors, you only need to install the capacitor
between the positive & negative motor tabs.
Solder 0.1
µ
F (50V) capacitors between:
• POSITIVE (+) motor tab & NEGATIVE (–) motor tab.
• POSITIVE (+) motor tab & GROUND tab*.
• NEGATIVE (–) motor tab & GROUND tab*.
*If motor has no ground tab, solder the capacitors to motor can.
Negative (–) motor tab
0.1 µ F Capacitors
Schottky diode
Positive (+) motor tab
Ground / motor can
Extra 0.1
µ
F capacitors are available in Novak kit #5620.
2. INSTALL SCHOTTKY DIODE
• Solder the lead CLOSEST to the silver stripe on the body
of the Schottky diode to the POSITIVE (+) motor tab.
• Solder the lead OPPOSITE the silver stripe on the body
of the Schottky to the NEGATIVE (–) motor tab.
If Schottky diode is installed backwards it will be destroyed. Replace
only with Schottky diodes with a minimum rating of 35 volts/8 amps.
Schottky diodes are available in Novak kit #5640.
3. INSTALL POWER CAPACITOR (see Set-Up Photo & Fig. 4)
WHY POWER CAPACITOR IS NEEDED: The Power Capacitor
drops ESC operating temperatures by 10-15
°
F and dissipates noise
& voltage spikes from the ESC’s high switching speed. You MUST
use Novak capacitors, because other capacitors with similar ratings
will not provide the same protection. We have done extensive
research to find capacitors with the very best Quality Factors.
• Mount Power Capacitor using the included slide
bracket––insert bracket into one of the channels on
the side of the GT7’s case, and secure with the included
tie-wraps. Otherwise, mount Power Capacitor using
the included double-sided tape in desired position.
• Bend Power Capacitor’s leads flat along the top of the
capacitor in the direction of the PowerCap wires
coming out of the right side of the GT7’s case.
• Insulate capacitor’s leads with the included vinyl tubing
and heat shrink as shown in Figure 4.
• Solder capacitor’s NEGATIVE (–) lead {shorter lead on
capacitor} to the GT7’s BLACK PowerCap wire.
• Solder capacitor’s POSITIVE (+) lead to RED PowerCap wire.
4. CONNECT SPEED CONTROL TO RECEIVER
Configure input harness wires and connect ESC to the
THROTTLE CHANNEL of receiver as described in Step 1.
STEP 1
The GT7 speed control comes with the industry standard
connector on a user-replaceable input harness. This connector
works with all major radio brands. However, with some older
style receivers, the wiring sequence in the plastic connector
must be changed. This is an important step, because the
receiver electronics may be damaged if the sequence is incorrect.
JR • Hitec • Futaba • New KO • Airtronics Z
JR, Hitec, Futaba, new KO, & Airtronics Z receivers do not
need to have the ESC’s input harness wire sequence changed.
New Airtronics Z receivers have blue plastic cases & new KO
cases have tabs on the input harness openings as in Figure 1.
• Insert one end of the input harness into receiver with the
BLACK wire toward the outside edge of receiver case.
• Insert opposite end of input harness into ESC with the
WHITE wire toward the ‘S’ (signal) marking in the ESC’s case.
Old-style KO • Old-style Sanwa/Airtronics
If your receiver is an older KO or Sanwa/Airtronics, you must
change the sequence of the ESC’s input harness wires.
Old Sanwa/Airtronics cases are black in color & Old KO cases
do not have the tab openings, as in Figure 2 above.
• Insert one end of input harness into ESC with the WHITE
wire toward the ‘S’ (signal) marking in the ESC’s case.
• Interchange the red and black wires in the plug plastic at
the opposite end of the input harness as in Figure 3 below.
• Insert modified end of the harness into the receiver with
the RED wire toward the outside edge of receiver case.
FIGURE 3 With a small standard screwdriver, gently lift plastic
prong until wire and metal socket easily slide out of plastic housing.
1. DETERMINE BEST ESC MOUNTING LOCATION
Choose a mounting position that keeps power wires away
from the receiver and antenna, and will provide
maximum airflow around case to allow for proper cooling.
The GT7 has slide mount channels in each side of the
case for holding the ON/OFF switch & power capacitor.
T
his lets you to put the power capacitor on one side of ESC, while
positioning ON/OFF switch facing up, down, forward, or back on
the opposite side. The switch also has a hole in it for attaching with a
4-40 or smaller screw, or you can use the included double-sided tape.
2. SLIDE-MOUNT POWER CAPACITOR
To use the included slide bracket to mount the capacitor on the side
of the ESC, be sure you have enough space in the desired location.
Slide the bracket into one of the channels on the ESC
(start at the bottom and slide up into the channel)
. Secure the
capacitor to the bracket with the included tie-wraps.
3. INSTALL THE SPEED CONTROL & SWITCH
If desired, slide the switch into one of the channels on the
side of the ESC as described above for the power capacitor.
Mount the ESC using the included double-sided tape.
4. INSTALL THE RECEIVER AND ANTENNA
Mount receiver as far from ESC, motor, power wires,
battery, and servo as possible. These components all emit
RF noise when throttle is being applied. On graphite or
aluminum, it may help to place receiver on edge with
crystal and antenna as far above chassis as possible.
Note: Mount the antenna as close to the receiver as possible, and trail
any excess wire off the top of the antenna mast––cutting or coiling the
excess antenna wire will greatly reduce radio range.
FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2
New KO (with tabs) Old KO (no tabs)
tabs no tabs
black red
red
white
black
white
STEP 2
slide-mount
switch
power
capacitor
tie-wrapped
to bracket
solder tabs
slide
brackets up
into channel
heat shrink & vinyl tubing
to insulate leads
5. CONNECT SPEED CONTROL TO BATTERY PACK
• Cut GT7’s BLACK power wire to desired length and strip
1/8-1/4” of insulation off the end. Solder to battery
NEGATIVE (–) of a charged 4 to 6 cell pack.
• Cut RED power wire to desired length (so it will go from GT7,
to battery positive, then to motor positive) and strip 1/8-1/4”
of insulation off the end. Then strip a 1/4-3/8” section
of insulation from the mid-section of the wire where it
will attach to battery positive. The stripped mid-section
gets soldered to battery POSITIVE (+) [see Set-Up Photo]
6. CONNECT SPEED CONTROL TO MOTOR
• Take the stripped end of the RED power wire and solder
to the POSITIVE (+) motor tab.
• Cut GT7’s BLUE power wire to desired length and strip
1/8-1/4” of insulation of the end. Solder to the
NEGATIVE (–) motor tab.
TIP: Twisting BLUE & RED wires once or twice around each other as
they go to the motor helps reduce RF noise emitted from power wires.
REPLACING POWER WIRES AT SPEED CONTROL
• Remove power wires at the PCB (printed circuit board), by
first removing ESC from the model so that you have access
to the bottom side of the solder tabs. Use a soldering iron
to apply heat to the power wire’s solder joint on the
bottom side of the solder tab, while gently pulling up on
the wire to remove it from the hole in the PCB.
• Replace power wires by stripping 1/8-1/4” of insulation
from the end of new wire. Tightly twist strands of wire,
and insert into proper solder tab’s hole. Use soldering iron
to apply heat to exposed wire that is extending past
bottom of PCB, and begin adding solder to tip of soldering
iron and to wire. Add just enough solder to form a clean
& continuous joint from the plated area of solder tab up
onto the wire. Using side cutters, trim remaining
(now soldered)
wire from below the solder tab––about 1/16” above PCB.
IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT OVERHEAT SOLDER TABS
Prolonged/excessive heating of solder tabs will damage PCB.
USING PLUGS FOR BATTERY & MOTOR CONNECTION
High-quality/low-resistance connectors, such as Dean’s Ultra
Plugs, can also be used to connect motor and battery.
Note: While plugs make component changes quick and easy, they
will never have as low of resistance as a good solder joint.
Use connectors that can not be connected backwards!
It is good practice to use female connectors on battery packs
to avoid shorting the connector and the battery.
If using connectors for both battery & motor:
Use a male connector on the ESC wires going to the battery
and a female connector on the wires going to the motor.
This will help prevent cross connection of the battery and motor
outputs that would cause internal damage to the ESC.
For additional information on using connectors, please visit our website.
GT7 BASIC SET-UP
CHANGING INPUT HARNESS
GT7 BASIC SET-UP
MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS
GT7 BASIC SET-UP
HOOK-UP INSTRUCTIONS
PROGRAMMABLE
RACING ESC
The Novak Designers asked themselves: How do we
make a great speed control like the Cyclone even better?
First, we made it 30% smaller, 30% lighter, increased the
number of factory-installed Programs to 7, and eliminated
the need for an external programming device for customizing
the user-adjustable Program.
Next, we broke down the user-adjustable program into
separate Drive and Braking Profiles to allow the user to fine
tune the throttle response with a choice of 5 Drive Profiles,
5 Brake Profiles, 2 styles of braking, and 7 Minimum Brake
settings. Not only that, but each of the 7 Throttle Programs
stores its own Minimum Brake setting.
Add to that Novak’s new Variable Throttle Step Technology,
which delivers up to 1300 discrete steps for both drive and
braking, and you’ve got the smoothest speed control
available––no matter what frequency you select (1-23kHz).
Slide-mount
ON/OFF
switch
Power Capacitor
tie-wrapped to
slide-mount bracket
One-Touch/“SET”
programming button
Keep receiver & antenna
as far from motor, servo,
battery, & power wires
as possible.
User-replaceable
input signal
harness
Black power wire
(battery negative)
Status LEDs
Trail excess
wire off top
of antenna
mast
Red power wire
(battery &
motor positive)
Blue power wire
(motor negative)
Schottky
diode
Three 0.1 µ F (50V)
ceramic capacitors
PowerCap wires
(–) (+)
(–) (+)
4 to 6 cell
battery pack
Status LEDs:
Yellow LED
Blue LED
Green LED
Red LED
SET
-UP PHOTO
FIGURE 4