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Step, Transmitter adjustments, One-touch programming – Novak Goat 3S Basic Set-Up (55-3019-1_Rev.B) User Manual

Page 2: Connect input harness, Wiring speed control, motor, & battery, Esc mounting, Do not use schottky diodes, Brush-mode set -up photo, Brushless-mode set -up photo, Connectors & wiring hints

background image

*If motor has no ground tab

(as shown here), solder the

capacitors to motor can.

FIGURE 5

FIGURE 2

FIGURE 1

New KO (with tabs)

Old KO (no tabs)

tabs

no tabs

black

red

red

white

black

white

step

4

one-touch programming

•NOT ALL TRANSMITTERS HA

VE THESE ADJUSTMENTS

The Goat ESC has the industry-standard receiver input connector on a user-

replaceable input harness &

works with all major radio brand’s new receivers.

However, some very old receivers must have the wiring sequence in the

plastic 3-pin connector housing changed.

This is important, because receiver

& servo electronics may be damaged if the sequence is incorrect.

JR • Hitec • Futaba • New KO • Airtronics Z

JR, Hitec, Futaba, new KO, & Airtronics Z receivers do not need input

harness re-wiring. Airtronics Z receivers have blue plastic cases & new KO

cases have tabs on the input harness openings as in

Figure 1.

• Plug one end of the input signal harness into the THROTTLE CHANNEL (#2) of

receiver with the

BLACK wire toward the outside edge of receiver case.

• Plug the other end of the input harness into 3-pin header inside the ESC’s case

with the

WHITE wire toward the ‘S’ (signal) marking on the ESC’s case above

the rectangular signal harness opening.

Old-style KO • Old-style Sanwa/Airtronics

If you have an older KO or Sanwa/Airtronics, you must change the sequence

of the ESC’s input harness wires--Old Sanwa/Airtronics cases are black color &

Old KO cases do not have tab openings, as in

Figure 2 above.

• Using a small flat blade screwdriver,

remove the red & black wires from the plastic

housing at the receiver end of the input harness as in

Figure 3 below.

Interchange the red and black wires in the plastic 3-pin connector housing at

the receiver end of the input harness.

• Insert modified end of the harness into the THROTTLE CHANNEL (#2) of receiver

with the

RED wire toward the outside edge of receiver case.

• Plug the other end of the input harness into the ESC with the

WHITE wire toward

the ‘S’ (signal) marking on the ESC’s case.

FIGURE 3

With a small standard screwdriver, gently lift plastic prong

until wire and metal socket easily slide out of plastic housing.

changing wiring sequence

@

receiver end

P3

step

1

connect input harness

step

3

wirinG speed control, motor, & battEry

1. MOTOR CAPACITORS NOT NEEDED

Novak brushless motors do not require external motor capacitors.

2. DO NOT USE SCHOTTKY DIODES

Schottky diodes must NOT be used with reversible ESCs (including brushless).

Schottky diode usage will damage the ESC & void warranty.

3. FACTORY-INSTALLED POWER CAPACITOR REQUIRED

The factory-installed Power Capacitor MUST be used with brushless &

brush-type motors.

If Power Capacitor becomes dented or damaged, ESC failure can

occur--replace immediately. Longer Power Capacitor wires will decrease performance.

4. SOLDER MOTOR POWER WIRES TO MOTOR

*Skip this step if installing complete system with ESC factory-wired to motor.
a. Cut the BLUE, YELLOW, & ORANGE silicone motor power wires to the

desired length, and strip 1/8-3/16” of insulation from the end of each

wire. Tightly twist the exposed strands of wire, and tin the exposed end

section of each wire with solder with a good, high heat iron.

b. Solder the ESC’s BLUE Phase ‘A’ motor wire to the motor’s phase ‘A’ solder

tab. Apply heat to exposed wire with soldering iron, and add solder to

the tip of the iron & the wire--Add just enough solder to form a clean &

continuous joint from the solder tab up onto the wire.

IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT OVERHEAT SOLDER TABS

Prolonged/excessive heating of solder tabs (motor or ESC) will cause damage.

c. Solder the ESC’s YELLOW Phase ‘B’ motor wire to the motor’s phase ‘B’

solder tab as described in Step 5B above.

d. Solder the ESC’s ORANGE Phase ‘C’ motor wire to the motor’s phase ‘C’

solder tab as described in Step 5B above.

Note: Make sure no wire strands have strayed to an adjacent solder tab, this will

result in short-circuiting & severe ESC damage, which will void the warranty.

5. CONNECT MOTOR’S SENSOR HARNESS TO ESC

Insert the 6-pin connector on the end of the motor’s Teflon sensor wires

into ESC’s sensor harness socket--the connector is keyed and will only go

together in one direction.

Spiral wrap can be used to protect sensor wires.

6. CONNECT SPEED CONTROL TO BATTERY PACK

Connect the speed control’s Tamiya-style JST battery connector to a charged

4 to 7 cell (1.2VDC/cell) or 2-cell LiPo battery pack.

step

2

ESC MOUNTiNG

Mount the speed control so that the power wires as far away from other

electronics as possible. Make sure that the speed control or the power

wires will not interfere with any moving parts in the vehicle. Select a

location that has good cooling and allows airflow through heat sinks.

If the ESC gets air flow, it will run cooler; and that means it will be more efficient!

1. MOUNT SPEED CONTROL IN VEHICLE
Use the included double-sided tape to mount the speed control in vehicle

(do not use glue)

. Avoid contact with side walls or other chassis components

to avoid vibration damage

.

Be sure receiver & antenna are mounted as far from ESC, power wires, battery,

& servo as possible--these components all emit RF noise when throttle is

applied. On graphite or aluminum chassis vehicles, it may help to place

receiver on edge with crystal & antenna as far above chassis as possible.

Note: Mount antenna as close to receiver as possible--trail any excess wire off top

of antenna mast (cutting or coiling excess antenna wire will reduce radio range).

2. SECURE POWER CAPACITOR TO CHASSIS
Use included double-sided tape, or a tie-wrap, to mount Power Capacitor

to the vehicle’s chassis or shock tower. Capacitor can also be tie-wrapped

along the power wires--this requires less space on the chassis and provides

good isolation from vibration.

3. INSTALL ON/OFF SWITCH
Use a screw or the included double-sided tape, and mount the switch

where it will be easy to access--be sure to select a position where it will

not get damaged or get switched OFF during a crash or roll-over.

NOvak bRuSHlESS mOtOrS

(Fig.4)

Amber LED flashes 4 times at start-up when transmitter signal is present

bRuSH-typE mOtOrS

(Fig.5-6)

Red LED flashes 4x at start-up when ESC is is Brush-Mode (trans.on)

1. DISCONNECT BRUSHLESS MOTOR SENSOR HARNESS

The Goat Brushless/Brush Crawler speed control automatically switches to

Brush-Mode when the ESC’s power is switched ON and no brushless motor

sensor harness is connected to it.

2. MOTOR CAPACITORS

Electric brush-type motors generate RF noise that causes interference. The

included 0.1µF (50V) non-polarized, ceramic capacitors must be used on

all motors to reduce motor noise & prevent ESC damage.

Note: Some motors come with built-in capacitors. If your motor only has 2 capacitors, you

need to install a capacitor between the positive & negative motor tabs––If you experience radio

interference with built-in capacitors only, install external ones.

Solder 0.1µF (50V) capacitors between:

• POSITIVE (+) & NEGATIVE (–) motor tabs.

• POSITIVE (+) motor tab & GROUND tab*.

• NEGATIVE (–) motor tab & GROUND tab*.

Negative (–) motor tab

0.1µF Capacitors

Positive (+) motor tab

Ground / motor can

DO NOT USE SCHOTTKY DIODES

3. SOLDER ESC’S BLUE & YELLOW WIRES TO MOTOR

With brush-type motors, the ESC’s

BLUE power wire goes to the NEGATIVE (–)

Motor Tab & the YELLOW power wire goes to the POSITIVE (+) Motor Tab.

a. Cut the ESC’s BLUE & YELLOW silicone motor power wire to the desired

length to reach the motor, and strip about 1/4” of insulation from the

end of each wire. Twist & tin the ends of each wire (individually).

b. Solder the BLUE motor power wire to the NEGATIVE (–) Motor Tab.

c. Solder the YELLOW motor power wire to the Positive (+) Motor Tab.

4. CONNECT SPEED CONTROL TO BATTERY PACK

Connect the speed control’s Tamiya-style JST battery connector to a charged

4 to 7 cell (1.2VDC/cell) or 2-cell LiPo battery pack.

If you are going to use different power wire connectors, we suggest

low-loss, high power connectors like Dean’s Ultra.

To prevent possible

cross-connection of motor phase wires, we do not recommend the use of

connectors on motor power wires of sensor-based brushless motors.

• Use polarized connectors. Reverse voltage will damage ESC & void warranty.
• Use a female connector on battery packs to avoid shorting.

When wiring the vehicle’s electronics, shorter length wires & clean/neat

installations will give you better performance, higher efficiency, & less

radio problems (glitching, poor range, etc.). Try your best to keep all

power wires away from signal wires, the receiver, and the antenna.

BRUSH-MODE SET

-UP PHOTO

(FIGURE 6)

BRUSHLESS-MODE SET

-UP PHOTO

(FIGURE 4)

Blue motor phase wire

to motor negative

ON/OFF Switch

User-replaceable

input signal

harness (Ch.2)

Black power wire (batter

y negative)

Trail excess

wire off top

of antenna

mast

Red power wire

(battery positive)

Blue power wire

(motor phase ‘A’)

(–)

(+)

4 to 6 cell batter

y pack or 2-cell LiPo

Yellow power wire

(motor phase ‘B’)

Orange power wire

(motor phase ‘C’)

Sensor Harness

bundled with

spiral wrap

Servo plugged into

steering ch. (#1)

Novak sensor-based

brushless motor

down to 18.5 turns

P2

brush-type

motor down

to 27 turns

One-Touch

button

Power Cap

tie-wrapped

to wires

CONNECTORS & wiring hintS

Status LEDs

power

output

pins

(–)

(+)

Red power

wire (battery

positive)

4 to 6 cell batter

y pack or 2-cell LiPo

Servo plugged into

steering ch. (#1)

With ESC connected to

(at least)

a receiver & a charged battery pack:

1. TURN ON THE TRANSMITTER’S POWER
2. PRESS & HOLD ESC’S ONE-TOUCH/SET BUTTON
3. TURN ON THE SPEED CONTROL’S POWER

With transmitter throttle at neutral, and still pressing the SET button,

slide the ESC’s ON/OFF switch

to ON position.

4. CONTINUE HOLDING SET BUTTON UNTIL RED LED COMES ON
5. RELEASE SET BUTTON AS SOON AS LED TURNS RED
6. PULL TRANSMITTER THROTTLE TO FULL-ON POSITION

Hold it there until the green status LED

turns solid green.

Note: Motor will not run during programming even if connected.

7. PUSH TRANSMITTER THROTTLE TO FULL-BRAKE/REVERSE

Hold it there until the green status LED

blinks green.

8. RETURN TRANSMITTER THROTTLE TO NEUTRAL

Red status LED will

turn solid red, indicating that speed control is

at neutral and that proper programming has been completed.

NOTE: If transmitter settings are changed, One-Touch Programming must be

repeated. If you experience any problems, turn off ESC & repeat One-Touch.

REMEMBER: Whenever the One-Touch set-up is performed, the speed

control will automatically revert back to the factory default settings & the

Throttle Profile will revert to #1 when in Brushless-Mode.

If you have any problems with Step 4, adjust transmitter as follows

and then repeat the One-Touch programming in Step 4:
A. Set HIGH ATV or EPA to maximum setting.

[amount of throw at full throttle]

B. Set LOW ATV, EPA, or ATL to maximum setting.

[amount of throw at full brakes]

C. Set EXPONENTIAL to zero setting.

[throttle channel linearity]

D. Set THROTTLE CHANNEL REV. SWITCH to either position.
E. Set THROTTLE CHANNEL TRIM to middle setting.

[adjusts neutral position/increases or decreases coast brakes]

F. Set ELECTRONIC TRIGGER THROW ADJUSTMENT to 50%

throttle and 50% brake throw--best for reversible ESCs.

[adjusts trigger throw electronic/digital pistol-grip transmitters]

G. Set MECHANICAL TRIGGER THROW ADJUSTMENT to position

with 1/2 throttle and 1/2 brake throw.

transmitter adjustments

Yellow motor phase

wire to motor positive

ON/OFF Switch

User-replaceable

input signal

harness (Ch.2)

Black power wire (batter

y negative)

Trail excess

wire off top

of antenna

mast

(–)

One-Touch

button

Power Cap

tie-wrapped

to wires

Status LEDs

power

output

pins