Step, Transmitter adjustments, One-touch programming – Novak Goat 3S Basic Set-Up (55-3019-1_Rev.B) User Manual
Page 2: Connect input harness, Wiring speed control, motor, & battery, Esc mounting, Do not use schottky diodes, Brush-mode set -up photo, Brushless-mode set -up photo, Connectors & wiring hints
*If motor has no ground tab
(as shown here), solder the
capacitors to motor can.
FIGURE 5
FIGURE 2
FIGURE 1
New KO (with tabs)
Old KO (no tabs)
tabs
no tabs
black
red
red
white
black
white
step
4
–
one-touch programming
•NOT ALL TRANSMITTERS HA
VE THESE ADJUSTMENTS
•
The Goat ESC has the industry-standard receiver input connector on a user-
replaceable input harness &
works with all major radio brand’s new receivers.
However, some very old receivers must have the wiring sequence in the
plastic 3-pin connector housing changed.
This is important, because receiver
& servo electronics may be damaged if the sequence is incorrect.
JR • Hitec • Futaba • New KO • Airtronics Z
JR, Hitec, Futaba, new KO, & Airtronics Z receivers do not need input
harness re-wiring. Airtronics Z receivers have blue plastic cases & new KO
cases have tabs on the input harness openings as in
Figure 1.
• Plug one end of the input signal harness into the THROTTLE CHANNEL (#2) of
receiver with the
BLACK wire toward the outside edge of receiver case.
• Plug the other end of the input harness into 3-pin header inside the ESC’s case
with the
WHITE wire toward the ‘S’ (signal) marking on the ESC’s case above
the rectangular signal harness opening.
Old-style KO • Old-style Sanwa/Airtronics
If you have an older KO or Sanwa/Airtronics, you must change the sequence
of the ESC’s input harness wires--Old Sanwa/Airtronics cases are black color &
Old KO cases do not have tab openings, as in
Figure 2 above.
• Using a small flat blade screwdriver,
remove the red & black wires from the plastic
housing at the receiver end of the input harness as in
Figure 3 below.
•
Interchange the red and black wires in the plastic 3-pin connector housing at
the receiver end of the input harness.
• Insert modified end of the harness into the THROTTLE CHANNEL (#2) of receiver
with the
RED wire toward the outside edge of receiver case.
• Plug the other end of the input harness into the ESC with the
WHITE wire toward
the ‘S’ (signal) marking on the ESC’s case.
FIGURE 3
With a small standard screwdriver, gently lift plastic prong
until wire and metal socket easily slide out of plastic housing.
changing wiring sequence
@
receiver end
P3
step
1
–
connect input harness
step
3
–
wirinG speed control, motor, & battEry
1. MOTOR CAPACITORS NOT NEEDED
Novak brushless motors do not require external motor capacitors.
2. DO NOT USE SCHOTTKY DIODES
Schottky diodes must NOT be used with reversible ESCs (including brushless).
Schottky diode usage will damage the ESC & void warranty.
3. FACTORY-INSTALLED POWER CAPACITOR REQUIRED
The factory-installed Power Capacitor MUST be used with brushless &
brush-type motors.
If Power Capacitor becomes dented or damaged, ESC failure can
occur--replace immediately. Longer Power Capacitor wires will decrease performance.
4. SOLDER MOTOR POWER WIRES TO MOTOR
*Skip this step if installing complete system with ESC factory-wired to motor.
a. Cut the BLUE, YELLOW, & ORANGE silicone motor power wires to the
desired length, and strip 1/8-3/16” of insulation from the end of each
wire. Tightly twist the exposed strands of wire, and tin the exposed end
section of each wire with solder with a good, high heat iron.
b. Solder the ESC’s BLUE Phase ‘A’ motor wire to the motor’s phase ‘A’ solder
tab. Apply heat to exposed wire with soldering iron, and add solder to
the tip of the iron & the wire--Add just enough solder to form a clean &
continuous joint from the solder tab up onto the wire.
IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT OVERHEAT SOLDER TABS
Prolonged/excessive heating of solder tabs (motor or ESC) will cause damage.
c. Solder the ESC’s YELLOW Phase ‘B’ motor wire to the motor’s phase ‘B’
solder tab as described in Step 5B above.
d. Solder the ESC’s ORANGE Phase ‘C’ motor wire to the motor’s phase ‘C’
solder tab as described in Step 5B above.
Note: Make sure no wire strands have strayed to an adjacent solder tab, this will
result in short-circuiting & severe ESC damage, which will void the warranty.
5. CONNECT MOTOR’S SENSOR HARNESS TO ESC
Insert the 6-pin connector on the end of the motor’s Teflon sensor wires
into ESC’s sensor harness socket--the connector is keyed and will only go
together in one direction.
Spiral wrap can be used to protect sensor wires.
6. CONNECT SPEED CONTROL TO BATTERY PACK
Connect the speed control’s Tamiya-style JST battery connector to a charged
4 to 7 cell (1.2VDC/cell) or 2-cell LiPo battery pack.
step
2
–
ESC MOUNTiNG
Mount the speed control so that the power wires as far away from other
electronics as possible. Make sure that the speed control or the power
wires will not interfere with any moving parts in the vehicle. Select a
location that has good cooling and allows airflow through heat sinks.
If the ESC gets air flow, it will run cooler; and that means it will be more efficient!
1. MOUNT SPEED CONTROL IN VEHICLE
Use the included double-sided tape to mount the speed control in vehicle
(do not use glue)
. Avoid contact with side walls or other chassis components
to avoid vibration damage
.
Be sure receiver & antenna are mounted as far from ESC, power wires, battery,
& servo as possible--these components all emit RF noise when throttle is
applied. On graphite or aluminum chassis vehicles, it may help to place
receiver on edge with crystal & antenna as far above chassis as possible.
Note: Mount antenna as close to receiver as possible--trail any excess wire off top
of antenna mast (cutting or coiling excess antenna wire will reduce radio range).
2. SECURE POWER CAPACITOR TO CHASSIS
Use included double-sided tape, or a tie-wrap, to mount Power Capacitor
to the vehicle’s chassis or shock tower. Capacitor can also be tie-wrapped
along the power wires--this requires less space on the chassis and provides
good isolation from vibration.
3. INSTALL ON/OFF SWITCH
Use a screw or the included double-sided tape, and mount the switch
where it will be easy to access--be sure to select a position where it will
not get damaged or get switched OFF during a crash or roll-over.
NOvak bRuSHlESS mOtOrS
(Fig.4)
Amber LED flashes 4 times at start-up when transmitter signal is present
bRuSH-typE mOtOrS
(Fig.5-6)
Red LED flashes 4x at start-up when ESC is is Brush-Mode (trans.on)
1. DISCONNECT BRUSHLESS MOTOR SENSOR HARNESS
The Goat Brushless/Brush Crawler speed control automatically switches to
Brush-Mode when the ESC’s power is switched ON and no brushless motor
sensor harness is connected to it.
2. MOTOR CAPACITORS
Electric brush-type motors generate RF noise that causes interference. The
included 0.1µF (50V) non-polarized, ceramic capacitors must be used on
all motors to reduce motor noise & prevent ESC damage.
Note: Some motors come with built-in capacitors. If your motor only has 2 capacitors, you
need to install a capacitor between the positive & negative motor tabs––If you experience radio
interference with built-in capacitors only, install external ones.
Solder 0.1µF (50V) capacitors between:
• POSITIVE (+) & NEGATIVE (–) motor tabs.
• POSITIVE (+) motor tab & GROUND tab*.
• NEGATIVE (–) motor tab & GROUND tab*.
Negative (–) motor tab
0.1µF Capacitors
Positive (+) motor tab
Ground / motor can
DO NOT USE SCHOTTKY DIODES
3. SOLDER ESC’S BLUE & YELLOW WIRES TO MOTOR
With brush-type motors, the ESC’s
BLUE power wire goes to the NEGATIVE (–)
Motor Tab & the YELLOW power wire goes to the POSITIVE (+) Motor Tab.
a. Cut the ESC’s BLUE & YELLOW silicone motor power wire to the desired
length to reach the motor, and strip about 1/4” of insulation from the
end of each wire. Twist & tin the ends of each wire (individually).
b. Solder the BLUE motor power wire to the NEGATIVE (–) Motor Tab.
c. Solder the YELLOW motor power wire to the Positive (+) Motor Tab.
4. CONNECT SPEED CONTROL TO BATTERY PACK
Connect the speed control’s Tamiya-style JST battery connector to a charged
4 to 7 cell (1.2VDC/cell) or 2-cell LiPo battery pack.
If you are going to use different power wire connectors, we suggest
low-loss, high power connectors like Dean’s Ultra.
To prevent possible
cross-connection of motor phase wires, we do not recommend the use of
connectors on motor power wires of sensor-based brushless motors.
• Use polarized connectors. Reverse voltage will damage ESC & void warranty.
• Use a female connector on battery packs to avoid shorting.
When wiring the vehicle’s electronics, shorter length wires & clean/neat
installations will give you better performance, higher efficiency, & less
radio problems (glitching, poor range, etc.). Try your best to keep all
power wires away from signal wires, the receiver, and the antenna.
BRUSH-MODE SET
-UP PHOTO
(FIGURE 6)
BRUSHLESS-MODE SET
-UP PHOTO
(FIGURE 4)
Blue motor phase wire
to motor negative
ON/OFF Switch
User-replaceable
input signal
harness (Ch.2)
Black power wire (batter
y negative)
Trail excess
wire off top
of antenna
mast
Red power wire
(battery positive)
Blue power wire
(motor phase ‘A’)
(–)
(+)
4 to 6 cell batter
y pack or 2-cell LiPo
Yellow power wire
(motor phase ‘B’)
Orange power wire
(motor phase ‘C’)
Sensor Harness
bundled with
spiral wrap
Servo plugged into
steering ch. (#1)
Novak sensor-based
brushless motor
down to 18.5 turns
P2
brush-type
motor down
to 27 turns
One-Touch
button
Power Cap
tie-wrapped
to wires
CONNECTORS & wiring hintS
Status LEDs
power
output
pins
(–)
(+)
Red power
wire (battery
positive)
4 to 6 cell batter
y pack or 2-cell LiPo
Servo plugged into
steering ch. (#1)
With ESC connected to
(at least)
a receiver & a charged battery pack:
1. TURN ON THE TRANSMITTER’S POWER
2. PRESS & HOLD ESC’S ONE-TOUCH/SET BUTTON
3. TURN ON THE SPEED CONTROL’S POWER
With transmitter throttle at neutral, and still pressing the SET button,
slide the ESC’s ON/OFF switch
to ON position.
4. CONTINUE HOLDING SET BUTTON UNTIL RED LED COMES ON
5. RELEASE SET BUTTON AS SOON AS LED TURNS RED
6. PULL TRANSMITTER THROTTLE TO FULL-ON POSITION
Hold it there until the green status LED
turns solid green.
Note: Motor will not run during programming even if connected.
7. PUSH TRANSMITTER THROTTLE TO FULL-BRAKE/REVERSE
Hold it there until the green status LED
blinks green.
8. RETURN TRANSMITTER THROTTLE TO NEUTRAL
Red status LED will
turn solid red, indicating that speed control is
at neutral and that proper programming has been completed.
NOTE: If transmitter settings are changed, One-Touch Programming must be
repeated. If you experience any problems, turn off ESC & repeat One-Touch.
REMEMBER: Whenever the One-Touch set-up is performed, the speed
control will automatically revert back to the factory default settings & the
Throttle Profile will revert to #1 when in Brushless-Mode.
If you have any problems with Step 4, adjust transmitter as follows
and then repeat the One-Touch programming in Step 4:
A. Set HIGH ATV or EPA to maximum setting.
[amount of throw at full throttle]
B. Set LOW ATV, EPA, or ATL to maximum setting.
[amount of throw at full brakes]
C. Set EXPONENTIAL to zero setting.
[throttle channel linearity]
D. Set THROTTLE CHANNEL REV. SWITCH to either position.
E. Set THROTTLE CHANNEL TRIM to middle setting.
[adjusts neutral position/increases or decreases coast brakes]
F. Set ELECTRONIC TRIGGER THROW ADJUSTMENT to 50%
throttle and 50% brake throw--best for reversible ESCs.
[adjusts trigger throw electronic/digital pistol-grip transmitters]
G. Set MECHANICAL TRIGGER THROW ADJUSTMENT to position
with 1/2 throttle and 1/2 brake throw.
transmitter adjustments
Yellow motor phase
wire to motor positive
ON/OFF Switch
User-replaceable
input signal
harness (Ch.2)
Black power wire (batter
y negative)
Trail excess
wire off top
of antenna
mast
(–)
One-Touch
button
Power Cap
tie-wrapped
to wires
Status LEDs
power
output
pins