Dynaflite DYFA2016 - Manual (Page 20)

t-1 4. Cut two more 1 /4" x 1 /4" tabs and one 1 /4
x 2" strip to secure the hatch. Glue the 2" strip to the
top (inside) of the hatch. Glue the 1/4" tabs to the
2" strip.
Q 8. Cut the 2" basswood grooved slider block into
two 13/16" long pieces.
Q 9. Make the servo tray from the remaining
1/16" plywood sheet. For now, cut only the outside
edges. Do not cut to fit your servo until the next step.
Start by making the tray slightly too long and slightly
too wide so you can little by little "fine tune" it for the
best fit by sanding the edges. Test fit the servo tray
between the #1 ribs with the slider blocks but do not
glue any of the parts at this time. With the blocks on
either side of the servo tray, the assembly should fit
tightly between the ribs.
U 5. Test fit the hatch over the aileron servo
compartment. The tabs on the hatch fit on top of the
bottom spar and the tab on the spar supports the
back of the hatch.
Q 6. Hold the hatch in position and drill a 1/16"
hole through the hatch and the 1/16" x 1/2"
plywood hatch retainer (named "cleat" on the plan).
Remove the hatch and enlarge the hole in the hatch
only with a 3/32" drill bit. Temporarily secure the
hatch to the wing with a #2 x 3/8" screw (not
included).
U 10. Remove the servo tray and cut out the middle
to fit your servo. Make sure that the slider blocks will
not interfere with the mount portion of your servo
and the rubber grommets. Mount your servo to the
tray and reposition the assembly in the wing without
using any glue. The exact position of the servo will
be determined when you connect the servo the
aileron control cables.
Q 7. Glue two strips cut from 1/16" balsa to the
bottom of both #1 ribs. The strips should align
with the sides of the hatch with an approximately
1/32"gap.
There, the center section is ready to join to the outer
panels. Oops, we'd better build the outer panels then!
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