Losi LOSB0103 User Manual

Page 9

Inboard Camber Location: The 1/10 HIGHroller has three

different inner locations with vertical adjustment for the front

camber tie rod. In general, the lower or further out the inside

position is, relative to the outside, the more camber gain (total

camber change through the total throw of the suspension) is

present. This is an adjustment that is difficult to make a generic

statement for as it can have slightly different results on various

conditions. The following is a summary of how this adjustment

will usually impact the handling of the 1/10 HIGHroller. A

longer front camber link will usually make the 1/10 HIGHroller

feel stiffer. This will help keep the 1/10 HIGHroller flatter with

less roll, but can make the 1/10 HIGHroller handle worse in

bumpy conditions, it also will make the 1/10 HIGHroller easier

to drive. A shorter front camber link will result in more front

end roll, which will provide more steering on tighter turns with

the loss of some stability. You will also lose some high-speed

steering but might gain some more steering response. Too

short of a front link may make the 1/10 HIGHroller feel “twitchy”

or “wandery” meaning that it may be difficult to drive straight

at high speed.

Inboard Camber Vertical Adjustment: Washers are often

used under the inner ball stud mounting location; this is one

of the most important adjustments on the 1/10 HIGHroller.

You should get a feel for how the number of washers affects

the handling. Adding washers will make the 1/10 HIGHroller

more stable and keep the front end flatter. This works well

on higher traction surfaces. Removing washers will make the

steering more aggressive, which works well on lower traction

surfaces. This can be good in some conditions, but can also

make the 1/10 HIGHroller difficult to drive in others. The

washers that are used are included in an assortment package

of washers (LOSA6350).

Outboard Camber Location: In addition to the inboard

camber location, the 1/10 HIGHroller also provides two

outboard mounting options. The outer location helps the 1/10

HIGHroller stay tighter in turns with a more precise steering

feel. Moving the link to the inner hole will make the steering

react slightly slower and steer smoother. The advantage to the

inner hole is that it can increase on-power steering and help the

1/10 HIGHroller get through bumps better.

Toe-In/Out: This is the parallel relationship of the front tires to

one another. Toe-in/out adjustments are made by changing the

overall length of the steering tie rods. Toe-in (the front of the

tires point inward, to a point in front of the front axle) will make

the 1/10 HIGHroller react a little slower, but have more steering

from the middle of the turn, out. The opposite is true with

toe-out (the front of the tires point outward, coming to a point

behind the front axle), the 1/10 HIGHroller will turn into the

corner better but with a decrease in steering from the middle

of the turn, out. Toe-in will help the 1/10 HIGHroller to track

better on long, straight, high-speed runs, where toe-out has a

tendency to make the 1/10 HIGHroller wander. We recommend

to run between 0-degree of toe-in/out to 1 degree of toe-in.

Bump-In/Out: Bump-out (front of the front tires toe-outward

under suspension compression) will result in more off-power

steering and less consistent handling if you have too much

bump-out. This effect is obtained by adding washers under the

steering spindle ball stud. Bump-in (front of the front tires toe-

inward under suspension compression) will result in less off-

power steering. Too much bump-in can make the steering feel

very inconsistent. This effect is obtained by installing a ball stud

washer on the bottom of the spindle. Testing has shown that

running a little bit of bump-in (kit setup) in the 1/10 HIGHroller

offers the best overall setup.

Caster: This is the angle of the king pin from vertical when

viewed from the side of the 1/10 HIGHroller. The 1/10

HIGHroller comes equipped with a 30-degree kick-up angle.

Total caster is determined by adding the amount of kick-up

(1/10 HIGHroller has 30 degrees) and the king pin angle of the

front spindle carriers. Increasing total caster will provide more

steering entering a turn but less on exit. Decreasing total caster

will cause the steering to react faster and increase on-power

steering.

Ride Height: This is the height of the chassis in relation to

the surface. It is an adjustment that affects the way your 1/10

HIGHroller turns and goes through bumps. To check the ride

height, drop one end (front or rear) of the 1/10 HIGHroller

from about a 5-6 inch height onto a flat surface. Once the 1/10

HIGHroller settles into a position, check the height of that end

of the 1/10 HIGHroller in relationship to the surface. To raise the

ride height, lower the shock collar on the shock evenly on the

end (front or rear) of the 1/10 HIGHroller that you are working

on. To lower the ride height, raise the shock collar. Both left and

right nuts should be adjusted evenly.
Every driver likes a little different feel so you should try small

ride height adjustments to obtain the feel you like. This should

be one of the last adjustments after everything else has been

dialed in (tuned). Do not use ride height adjustment as a

substitute for a change in spring rate.

Tuning the Rear End of the 1/10 HIGHroller

Shock Location: Moving the shocks in on the arm will result in

more forward traction and let the 1/10 HIGHroller drive more

square off the turn.

Static Camber: Having the same definition as for the front end

and measured in the same fashion, rear camber can also be a

critical tuning feature. Testing has shown that running a small

amount of negative camber (.5-1 degree) is best. Increasing

negative rear camber (in the range of 1.5-3 degrees) will

increase stability and traction in corners, but decrease high

speed stability. Decreasing rear camber (in the range of 0-1.5

degrees) will decrease stability and traction in corners, but will

increase high-speed stability.

Inboard Camber Location: The 1/10 HIGHroller has multiple

rear camber locations. Using a longer camber link will improve

stability and traction (grip). Using a shorter camber link will

increase steering while decreasing rear grip. Running the

camber link in the inside position on the shock tower will give

your 1/10 HIGHroller more steering entering the turn as it will

let the 1/10 HIGHroller set over the rear tire and give you more

forward traction exiting the turn. As you move the camber link

towards the outside of the 1/10 HIGHroller, you will gain less

initial steering, however, you will gain more steering as the

1/10 HIGHroller exits the turn. The 1/10 HIGHroller now has the

capabilities of a lower row of holes in the rear shock tower for

the inner camber link location. The lower hole gives the 1/10

HIGHroller more camber gain (more angle relative to arm =

more camber gain). This can be helpful when the surface gets

bumpy and rutted to help the rear end of the 1/10 HIGHroller

go through the bumps easier due to the increased camber gain

of the tires.

Outboard Camber Location: Running the camber link in the

inside position on the hub will generate more rotation entering

a turn, but decrease steering on exit. Running the camber link

in the furthest outer position on the hub will generate more

stability entering a turn and increase steering on exit.

Toe-In: The stock toe-in is 3 degrees of inboard per side and 0

degrees in the hub.

Anti/Pro-Squat: Increasing anti-squat is generated by raising

the front of the pivot block, relative to the rear of the pivot.

This will increase initial steering and forward traction. You can

increase anti-squat in 1 degree increments by using two .030

washers between the front of the pivot plate and pivot block.

Pro-squat is generated by raising the rear of the pivot relative to

the front. This will decrease forward traction and initial steering,

but provide more on-power steering on high-traction surfaces.

Pro-squat will also help the 1/10 HIGHroller from pulling

wheelies on high-bite surfaces.

Tuning the Chassis of the 1/10 HIGHroller

Slipper Adjustment: After fully tightening the adjustment

nut (so the coils of the spring just touch) loosen the slipper

adjustment nut 2 1/2 turns. This will be a good starting point for

your slipper settings.