Team Associated RC12R5.2 - Manual (Page 12)

12
:: Tuning Tips
FRONT
Camber:
Camber is one of the most effective adjustments in tuning the car to the track conditions. In most situations only negative camber
(where the top of the tire is leaning in) is recommended. The typical setting for camber in the front wheels is -1 degree. Adding
more negative camber will give more steering, making the car feel more aggressive. Likewise, adding more positive camber will
make the car more stable and be easier to drive.
Caster:
Caster describes the angle of the kingpin from vertical when looking at the side of the car. Adding angle to the kingpin, or “caster”,
controls the amount of camber gain at the front wheels through steering angle. Negative caster means leaning the top of the
kingpin toward the back of the car, and it adds negative camber on the outside front wheel during steering. Using less negative
caster will give less steering entering the corner, making the car feel smoother and more stable. The standard setting of -3.25
degrees is good for most conditions, and -1.80 degrees is a good setting for extremely high traction conditions.
Active Strut Upper Arm Mount:
The active strut system dynamically controls caster through suspension travel. The active strut upper arm mount adds an angle to the
upper arm hinge pin, pointing the front of the pin down. This angle causes caster to become more positive as the suspension is
compressed. Increasing the angle in the active strut upper arm mount will give more entry steering, but less mid-corner steering.
In most conditions, the standard setting of 10 degrees is optimal. In bumpy, or very high bite conditions, using the 5 degree active
strut position can help to make the car more consistent through the corner.
Kingpin Damping:
Damping is added to the front suspension by applying silicone diff fluid to the outside of the kingpin below the bottom of the pivot
ball in the lower suspension arm. This is a necessary and highly effective adjustment to the front suspension. Typical diff fluid
weights for damping the kingpin spring vary from 5K to 60K. The standard starting point for silicone fluid is 30,000wt. With slower
spec motors, and in high bite conditions, 60,000wt can help to make the car more consistent through the corner.
Kingpin Spring:
The kit standard spring has a wire diameter of 0.020”, and is optimal for most conditions. If the racing surface is bumpy or low
grip, softer, 0.018” springs can help give the car more steering and consistency.
REAR
Rear Suspension Linkage:
It is extremely important that the rear pod linkage can pivot freely and doesn’t have any bind. The best way to check the linkage
is to remove the pod plates from the lower plate, this makes it much easier to feel any binding. We recommend checking the rear
linkage after a hard crash as the center pivot can shift slightly possibly causing rear suspension bind. If the suspension is not free,
loosen the 2 screws that hold the center pivot to the chassis. Place the chassis and rear pod on a flat surface, carefully tighten each
of the screws holding the center pivot. Now check the movement of the rear pod to be sure it’s free.
Side Damping:
Side damping is controlled by the damper tubes, and can be adjusted by changing the silicone “lube” that is applied to the damper
shaft. Increasing the thickness of the lube will increase the side damping, slowing down the speed at which the rear end of the
chassis will transition side-to-side. Increased side damping will help to make the car more stable in high grip conditions.
The standard lube for is 1000cst, increasing to 2000cst or 3000cst will help to make the car more stable when the grip levels are
higher.
Center Spring:
The center spring controls the ride height of the chassis as it is loaded over bumps in the track, and as the car accelerates and
decelerates. This adjustment is mainly relative to the mass of the chassis with all electronics and body included. The kit standard
blue spring is a good starting point for most racing conditions with 3.7V LiPo packs. In bumpier track conditions, a softer center
spring and more droop can help give more grip to the rear end of the car. With heavier 4.8V NiMh packs, a stiffer red spring may be
necessary to help keep the chassis from bottoming out on the track.
Center Damping:
Center damping controls the speed that the chassis will change ride height as it is loaded over bumps, and as the car accelerates and
decelerates. Using between 25wt and 35wt is a good match for the standard gold spring. Thicker oil will help to stiffen the rear of
the car, giving it more mid-corner steering. Likewise, thinner oil can help give the car more rear grip in low bite track conditions.