Sears 26462_0 - Manual (Page 16)

FIGURE 29
NOTE
Overhead guard shown raised for reasons of clarity.
FIGURE 30
NOTE
Test cut a scrap piece of wood
When routing deep cuts (controlled
by the router bit) in a work piece, remove material in
increments to prevent your router from overloading.
Repeat operation with several passes until the desired
depth is achieved.
FIGURE 31
Overhead guard shown raised for reasons of clarity.
GROOVING, FLUTING, AND VEINING:
Always UNPLUG the router before making any settings
or adjustments, or changing bits.
When routing, aiways feed AGAINST the rotation of
the cutter. Feed work piece in the direction of the
arrow in Figure 32.
For maximum accuracy, one edge of your work piece
(edge sliding against fence) must be true and straight.
Set up your fence as follows:
1. Position the fence behind the router bit for the
desired cutting depth (the distance of the cut from the
edge of the work piece, as shown in Figure 31). Make
sure the overhead guard is in place.
2. SECURELY TIGHTEN both fence clamping knobs.
3. Make the cut by sliding the straight edge of the
work piece against the fence, as shown in Figure 32.
(For each successive cut, the fence wiil need to be
adjusted.)
END CUTTING USING THE FENCE WITH THE
PUSH BLOCK
A warning
End cutting is performed with the
overhead guard rotated back so that it does not cover
the router bit. Therefore, EXTREME CARE must be
taken when end cutting so that fingers, hands, or any
other parts of your body DO NOT contact the bit, which
could result in serious bodily injury.
When routing on the ends of a work piece for making
tenons, siiding dovetails, and tongue and groove joints,
the work piece must be made smooth with both the
edges and the ends made true to each other and its
surfaces. All surfaces must be square, or at 90c<> with
each other.
NOTE
before making your finished cut.
The push block and clamp plate
assembly will not accommodate work pieces wider
than 4".
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