Vermont Casting 2550 - Manual (Page 25)

25
Encore Woodburning Stove
2000956
• Remove the ash pan, making sure to keep it level.
• To keep the cover from sliding off and to keep ash
from falling on the floor, do not tilt the ash pan for-
ward.
If the stove is in operation, close the ash door while
disposing of the ash.
• Properly dispose of the ash in a metal container with
a tight-fitting lid. Store the container outdoors away
from all combustible material.
• Return the ash pan to its original position in the
stove, and close and latch the ash door.
• Do not operate the stove with the ash door open.
This will result in over-firing, and could cause dam-
age to the stove, void the warranty, or even lead to a
house fire.
Empty the ash pan regularly, typically every one to
three days. The frequency will vary depending on how
you operate your Encore: ash will accumulate faster at
higher heat outputs.
Remove ash frequently and place it outdoors in a
metal container with a tight-fitting lid. Place the closed
container of ash on a noncombustible floor or on the
ground, well away from all combustible materials, pend-
ing final disposal. If the ash is disposed of by burial in
soil or otherwise locally dispersed, it should be kept in
the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly
cooled.
You can use wood ash as a garden fertilizer.
CAUTION: Never use your household or shop vacuum
cleaner to remove ash from the stove; always remove
and dispose of the ash properly.
Draft Management
A stove is part of a system, which includes the chimney,
the operator, the fuel, and the home. The other parts of
the system will affect how well the stove works. When
there is a good match between all the parts, the system
works well.
Wood stove or insert operation depends on natural
(unforced) draft. Natural draft occurs when the smoke
is hotter (and therefore lighter) than the outdoor air at
the top of the chimney. The bigger the temperature
difference, the stronger the draft. As the smoke rises
from the chimney it provides suction or ʻdrawʼ that pulls
air into the stove for combustion. A slow, lazy fire with
the stoveʼs air inlets fully open indicates a weak draft.
A brisk fire, supported only by air entering the stove
through the normal inlets, indicates a good draft. The
stoveʼs air inlets are passive; they regulate how much
air can enter the stove, but they donʼt move air into it.
Depending on the features of your installation - steel or
masonry chimney, inside or outside the house, matched
to the stoveʼs outlet or oversized - your system may
warm up quickly, or it may take a while to warm up and
operate well. With an ʻairtightʼ stove or insert, one which
restricts the amount of air getting into the firebox, the
chimney must keep the smoke warm all the way to the
outdoors. Some chimneys do this better than others.
Hereʼs a list of features and their effects.
Masonry Chimney
Masonry is a traditional material for chimneys, but it
can perform poorly when it serves an ʻairtightʼ stove.
Masonry is a very effective ʻheat sinkʼ - it absorbs a lot
of heat. It can cool the smoke enough to diminish draft.
The bigger the chimney, the longer it takes to warm up.
Itʼs often very difficult to warm up an outdoor masonry
chimney, especially an oversized one, and keep it warm
enough to maintain an adequate draft.
Steel Chimney
Most factory-made steel chimneys have a layer of
insulation around the inner flue. This insulation keeps
the smoke warm. The insulation is less dense than ma-
sonry, so a steel chimney warms up more quickly than
a masonry chimney. Steel doesnʼt have the good looks
of masonry, but it performs much better.
Indoor / Outdoor location
Because the chimney must keep the smoke warm, itʼs
best to locate it inside the house. This uses the house
as insulation for the flue and allows some heat release
into the home. An indoor chimney wonʼt lose its heat
to the outdoors, so it takes less heat from the stove to
heat it up and keep it warm.