Dynaflite DYFA3901 - Manual (Page 16)

Q 29. Glue the 3/32" x 3" x 15" balsa aft
fuselage top from former F-4 to the front of the
stabilizer base. Trim and sand the aft fuselage top
flush with the fuselage sides.
Q 1. Trim the aft edge of the 5/8" x 2-1/2" x
5-3/4" balsa hatch block to match the radius on
the fuselage sides.
Q 2. With the 1/2" x 1-7/16" x 2" balsa filler
block snug against the front of the hatch block, glue
the filler block to the fuselage. Do not glue the filler
block to the hatch block. After the glue has cured,
remove the hatch block.
U 3. From a leftover piece of 3/32" balsa sheet,
cut a 3/4" x 2-1/2" rectangle with the grain
running along the long dimension. Glue this sheet to
the top of the fuselage, with the front edge flush with
the aft edge of the hatch cut-out.
Q 4. Drill a 1/16" hole through the center of the
1/4" x 1/2" x 1-1/2" basswood hatch hold-
down block.
Q 5. Glue the hatch hold-down block to the front of
former F-3 and the underside of the sheet glued on
in step 3. After the glue has cured, insert a T-pin,
from the bottom, through the hole in the hatch hold-
down block and 3/32" sheet. Mark the hole
location on the sheet.
Q 6. Cut a 7/8" long hatch tab from the 1/16" x
3/8" x 1 -3/4" plywood strip. Round the corners on
the hatch tab and drill a 3/32" hole at one end at
the location shown on the plan. The remaining piece
will be used later as the hatch tongue.
Q 7. Use a #2 x 1 /2" sheet metal screw to attach
the hatch tab to the fuselage at the mark made in
step 5. The hatch tab should be snug but still
able to rotate.
Q 8. Sand the filler block flush with the front of
former F-
1.
t—1 9. If you are building the sailplane version, glue
the 2" x 2" x 2" balsa nose block to former F-1 and
the filler block. If you are building the .049 powered
version, cut out and glue the optional 1/16"
plywood firewall (not included) to former F-1 and
the filler block. The template is shown on the plan.
15