Dynaflite PT-19 - Manual (Page 24)

8. Glue the fin and fin fairing blocks into position
with 30-minute epoxy. Be sure the fin is
perpendicular to the stab and aligned with the
fuselage centerline.
9. When the epoxy has cured, remove the wing.
Fill in and blend any areas that need it with leftover
wood and hobby filler.
10. Mount the tailwheel bracket to the fuselage
with three #2 sheet metal screws. Use leftover wood
and hobby filler to blend it to the fuselage.
11. Finish the cockpits. The cockpit area was
designed to be structure free so you can add as
much detail as desired. The simplest is to glue in
cockpit decks as shown on the plans and add a
couple of Williams Brothers pilots glued to the decks.
Fourmost makes cockpit coaming that dresses up the
openings nicely. The kit includes two instrument
panel decals which can be positioned on the
bulkheads, or you can purchase separate instrument
panels from Midwest Products. The kit also includes
25" of 1 /4" dowel to build the roll cage between the
cockpits. Details in the cockpit area will really dress
up the appearance of your model.
Position the mount on the plans at the firewall then
locate the engine on the mount to fit the front of the
cowl properly. Check the position on the model to be
sure blind nuts and bolts will clear the structure.
NOTE: If you will be using a chainsaw-type engine,
such as the G-23, your engine will need to be
spaced out from the firewall. On one of our
prototypes we used a 1-1/2" block of wood that
was bolted to the firewall with 10-32 x 2" bolts.
13. Glue the firewall to the fuselage with
30-minute epoxy. For added security you can pin the
firewall to the fuselage if desired. Drill small holes
through the sides of the fuselage into the firewall and
epoxy in small dowels or toothpicks.
14. Once the epoxy has cured, install your
engine and mount on the firewall.
15. Fit the cowl. The plastic cowl comes in halves
and needs to be glued together. The kit includes a
strip of plastic that is used to reinforce the joint on
the inside. Thin CA works well for this. When you
have glued the cowl together, cut a small hole where
the prop needs to exit the front. Slip the cowl onto
the fuselage. Enlarge the hole as needed to clear the
engine thrust washer. As you continue to fit the cowl
to the fuselage and engine you may need to remove
and reinstall the engine several times. We have
found that using a piece of cardboard taped to the
side of the fuselage is the easiest way to locate the
cutout for the engine. Tape the cardboard to the
fuselage and cut an opening in it to fit your engine,
remove the engine, install the cowl and transfer the
cutout to the cowl. If you go slowly and remove a
little material each time from the cowl you will be
rewarded with a good looking cowl.
12. Time to mount your engine. Before you glue
the firewall into position, you should add some
reinforcing sticks to the inside of the fuselage as
shown in the above photo. There should be ample
leftover 1 /4" x 3/8" basswood sticks for this purpose.
Glue them into position with 30-minute epoxy. While
you are waiting for the epoxy to cure you can mount
your engine to the engine mount you have chosen.
16. When you are satisfied with the fit of the
cowl remove it and glue the four hardwood blocks
into place on the fuselage. The blocks are of different
sizes so a little fitting will be needed. They should be
close to fitting from the engine box to the fuselage
curve at "B." After the blocks are glued into position,
sand them to blend to the curve of the cowl.
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