Cub Cadet SLT1500 Series - Manual (Page 50)

Series 1000 and 1500
46
26.22. The crease in the brake arm acts as a cam:
See Figure 26.22.
• The brake arm pivots on a square-headed stud.
• The two pins are forced against the backing
plate when force is applied to the arm.
• The backing plate rides between the pins and
the pad, to prevent the pins form working
through the brake pad.
26.23. Replace the pads if they are worn. They fre-
quently last many years unless the brakes have
been dragging.
26.24. Be sure the pin bores are clear of dirt and corro-
sion: either may cause the pins to bind and the
brakes to drag.
26.25. On assembly, apply a sparing amount of dry
graphite lubricant to the pins and the spots on
the brake arm that they contact. Do not allow
any lubricant to get on the brake pad.
26.26. Install the brake caliper, tightening the two bolts
to 7 to 10 ft.-lbs., then check and adjust the pad-
to-rotor clearance. See Figure 26.11.
26.27. Lock the adjustment nut with a new cotter pin.
26.28. Install the rear wheel, tightening the lug nuts to a
torque of 350 to 500 in.-lbs. Lower the tractor to
the ground.
26.29. After any brake service is performed, test the
brakes as described in steps 23.3 - 23.4 then
test-drive the tractor in a safe area that is free of
hazards, obstacles, and by-standers before
returning the tractor to service.
26.30. If the brake is adjusted correctly and there is
insufficient travel in the linkage to fully apply the
brakes, a simple visual inspection should identify
the cause.
26.31. Confirm that the brake pedal is firmly attached to
the pedal shaft. See Figure 26.31.
26.32. Remove the cutting deck to inspect the brake
pedal shaft, bushings, and bracket.
26.33. Check for excessive play in the bushings.
Replace them if they are worn.
27. PEDAL BUSHING REPLACEMENT
27.1. If any of the pedal bushings are worn, replace all
the bushings.
27.2. Remove the brake pedal where it connects to
the brake pedal shaft.
Figure 26.22
Figure 26.31
Brake Pedal