S&S Cycle Standard & Easy Start Gear Drive Camshafts for 2007–up Harley-Davidson Big Twin and 2006 Dyna Models User Manual

Page 7

gasket under lifter cover and install push rod, pushrod cover,

lifter cover, and gasket as an assembly on crankcase. Tighten lifter

cover screws to 95 in-lbs. torque. Stock pushrods or S&S Quickee

pushrods, can be installed without removing tappet cover.

NOTE: If using unmodified original tappets, perform steps 3-A thru 3-D to

adjust pushrods, see below. If S&S HL

T kit has been installed in tappets,

proceed to steps 4-A thru 4-F - next page.
3- Pushrod Adjustment Procedure - ForStock Tappets, and S&S

Tappets without HL

T Kit

A. Turn adjuster screw to lengthen exhaust pushrod until pushrod

has no vertical movement but still rotates with light finger

pressure. Extend pushrod by rotating adjuster screw an additional

24 flats and secure adjuster screw with locknut.

B. Repeat step 3A for intake pushrod.
C. Lifters should bleed down in 5-10 minutes, allowing pushrods to

be rotated with light finger pressure. Extend pushrod covers and

install cover clips.

Rotating engine before lifters have bled down may damage pushrods
and other components not covered under warranty.

D. Rotate engine until it is at TDC of compression stroke for rear

piston (following procedure outlined above). Repeat steps 3A-C

for rear pushrods.

4- Pushrod Adjustment Procedure - For Tappets With HL

T Kit

Installed

A. Remove clips to release lifters. If necessary, place transmission in

high gear and turn rear wheel to rotate engine until both lifters

of front cylinder are at lowest point on camshaft. The engine is

now at TDC of compression stroke for front piston. If equipped

with Easy Start cams, you must use extra care when adjusting

pushrods. Because the decompression lobe is near TDC, it is

possible to adjust the pushrod while the tappet is on the lobe if

it is not exactly at TDC. This will cause incorrect exhaust pushrod

adjustment. To verify correct position, you can rotate the engine

in the forward direction and feel for the exhaust tappet to slightly

lift (about .030") and set back down on base circle. This is the

proper point to adjust the pushrods.

B. Extend pushrod adjustment, collapsing lifter until piston

assembly is in contact with HL

T spacer and pushrod is tight. If

tappets contain oil, as when pushrods are readjusted after engine

has been run, or if all oil was not removed during HL

T installation,

extend pushrod adjustment until valve is open (about five

additional turns of adjusting screw). Allow 5 minutes for hydraulic

unit to bleed down. If pushrod can be turned with fingers after

bleeding down, lifter is not completely collapsed, and this step

must be repeated.

NOTE: Perform this operation on one cylinder at a time. Do not turn

engine until pushrod adjustment is complete.

Turning engine while valve is held off the seat could result in valve to
valve or valve to piston contact and serious valve train damage.

C. Loosen pushrod adjustment until pushrod can be rotated with

the fingers with slight drag. Pushrod now has zero lash.

NOTES:
Shortening pushrod adjuster an additional six flats or one full turn

from zero lash often results in quieter pushrod operation. This provides

additional travel for the hydraulic piston assembly, which can improve the

ability of the hydraulic unit to maintain zero lash under normal operating

conditions.
S&S does not offer an HL

T kit for 1999–’02 stock tappets. If HL

T kit is

required a 2003–later stock tappet or S&S tappet is recommended.

D. Tighten lock nut and recheck pushrod adjustment to insure that it

is still correct.

E. Follow the same procedure for all four pushrods.
F. Replace any remaining parts removed to facilitate gear drive cams

installation. Check engine oil level. Start engine and check for

leaks.

NOTES:
After a few hundred miles it is a good idea to recheck pushrod adjustment

in a new engine as valve train may tighten up due to gasket compression

and valve seat wear.
Upon initial start up after modification, HL

T equipped lifters may be

somewhat noisy for 10-20 miles. If lifters are still noisy after 20 miles it is

recommended that pushrods be adjusted 1⁄2 turn looser.

Special notes on operation of motorcycle with Easy Start camshafts:

• Stock EFI engines require a minimum of 80 PSI cranking compression,

checked with the throttle open, for the ECU to fire the spark plugs.

• The easy start cams were designed to work with the compression

ratio and displacement combinations that the cam was intended

for. Due to a near infinite number of engine combinations,

manufacturing tolerances, or if the cam is used outside our

recommended compression ratios, occasionally an engine may not

build the required compression to start the bike. For these cases we

offer cams that do not release as much compression. Please call our

technical department at 1-608-627-8324

• The engine idle should be set at 1000-1100 RPM.
• If your bike is carbureted, the starting routine may be slightly

different, allow yourself time to experiment to find the best method.

• When the engine is turned off, you may hear a slight click. This is the

decompression lever resetting, and is normal. Occasionally this may

be quite loud but is still normal and does no harm.

• If you allow engine speed to go below 900 RPM, you may hear

clicking as the decompression lever starts engaging. Your engine may

stall if this happens. If this happens frequently, the idle speed should

be adjusted higher

• If the lifters have been disassembled or bled down for any purpose,

the starter may have difficulty with the initial start. Although the

decompression lobe lifts the lifter body, the lifter is not pumped up

and it will not lift the exhaust valve. You may need to remove the

spark plugs and crank the engine to get the oil pressure to the lifters.

CAUTION