Bowers & Wilkins Signature 8NT - Manual (Page 5)

With retrofit applications, the brackets and
screws provided in the PMK pack are not
required.
Warning:
Beware of the edges of the sliding nuts when
handling the PMK frame. You may wish to wear a
glove.
Feed the PMK frame through the aperture in the
sheetrock (plasterboard) and pull forward into
position. (Figure 7)
With one arm passing through the wall frame,
hold the PMK in place and offer the wall frame
into position with the other hand. Pinching the
parts to each side of the sheetrock with one
hand, insert and finger tighten the 2 screws to
hold the parts together. (Figure 8)
Insert the remaining 6 screws and level the frame
before tightening the screws until the wall frame
and PMK frame securely grip the sheetrock.
Feed the speaker cable (single or bi-wire) to the
nearest end of the PMK frame to avoid having to
pass the cable behind the speaker. Secure the
cable so that it cannot rattle against the studding
or drywall panels. Allow around 30cm (1 ft) of
free cable to facilitate connection.
Stage 2 – fitting the sheetrock (Figure 11)
Attach the sheetrock (plasterboard) to the wall
and cut out an aperture flush with the inner edge
of the PMK front face.
Fill the cavity outside the area of the PMK with
suitable absorbent wadding. Glass or mineral
fibre normally used for heat insulation and open
cell foam are suitable for this purpose, but ensure
they comply with the appropriate local fire and
building regulations.
Stage 3 – fitting the wall frame (Figure 12)
Fit the wall frame after the final plaster skim coat
has been applied, but before decoration.
Remove the grille mesh from the wall frame and
screw the frame to the PMK using the 8 screws
provided.
Remove the nut at the short end of the entry
gland and insert from the outside so the long end
points out of the back box. Refit and tighten the
nut on the inside of the back box. (Figure 15)
To aid alignment, temporarily fit the front panel to
the back box the desired way round, using 2 of
the self-tapping screws. (Figure 16)
Line up the back box and screw or nail the
brackets to the wall studs. Use a spirit level to
ensure the frame is properly level and tighten all
the screws holding the brackets to the back box.
(Figures 13 & 14)
Remove the front panel and feed the speaker
cable (single or bi-wire) through the cable entry
gland. Route the cable through the wooden
bracing studs and pull through enough length to
reach the nearest end of the opening in the front
panel plus 30cm (1 ft) for ease of connection.
Secure the cable so that it cannot rattle against
the studding or drywall panels. Tighten the cable
entry gland around the cable.
Position the foam pad in the back box so it will
clear the aperture and screw the front panel
securely in place in the desired orientation.
(Figure 16 with foam position in grey) Use 16
self-tap screws round the outer edge, 4 in the
recessed long sides of the aperture and 2 near
one short side of the aperture.
Run the foam tape provided round the edge of
the aperture to act as a seal to the sheetrock.
(Figure 17)
Stage 2 – fitting the sheetrock
Attach the sheetrock (plasterboard) to the wall
and cut out an aperture flush with the lip of the
opening in the back box. (Figure 11)
Remove debris from the inside of the back box
with a vacuum cleaner.
Stage 3 – fitting the wall frame (Figure 12)
Fit the wall frame after the final plaster skim coat
has been applied, but before decoration.
Remove the grille mesh from the wall frame and
screw the frame to the back box using the 8
screws provided.
When the brickwork is complete, remove the
front panel from the back box. Run the cable into
the back box. Take it to where one end of the
aperture will be, then leave an additional 30cm
(1 ft) to aid connection.
Position the foam pad in the back box so it will
clear the aperture and screw the front panel
securely in place in the desired orientation.
(Figure 16 with foam position in grey) Use 16
self-tap screws round the outer edge, 4 in the
recessed long sides of the aperture and 2 near
one short side of the aperture.
Run the foam tape provided round the edge of
the aperture to act as a seal. (Figure 17)
Stage 2 – finishing the wall
Even if plastering the wall in the traditional
manner, we recommend that, for vibration
reasons outlined above, the surfaces of the back
box (front and back) are covered by sheetrock
(plasterboard) attached with mastic. On the front
face, a hole should be cut in the sheetrock flush
with the lip of the aperture in the back box. At
the back, allow for the cable if necessary.
If there is no option to wet plastering, pre-coat
the back box with a suitable adhesive first.
Remove debris from the inside of the back box
with a vacuum cleaner.
Stage 3 – fitting the wall frame (Figure 12)
Fit the wall frame after the final plaster skim coat
has been applied, but before decoration.
Remove the grille mesh from the wall frame and
screw the frame to the back box using the 8
screws provided.
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