Quick Fuel Technology 4500 (Newer Style) E-85 Conversion Kit - Manual (Page 2)

6. Remove all of the air bleeds from the top section of the main body. Each throttle bore has three
threaded bleed bosses. Working from the outside, in the boss furthest away from the center of the
carburetor install the number 42 bleed. In the boss right next to it, moving toward the center, install
the air bleed marked with the number 63. In the boss next to the accelerator pump discharge nozzle
insert the air bleed marked with the number 28. Repeat this same sequence in the remaining throttle
bores.
7. Remove the two pump discharge nozzles (squirters) and stainless screws. In the small parts bag find
the two thick composite gaskets, two thin paper gaskets. Place the composite gasket on the accelerator
pump nozzle hole in the main body, slip the paper gasket over the nozzle screw, then the nozzle
(squirter) and install as a unit on top of the composite gasket, center on the locator tab and tighten with
an 5/32” Allen wrench. The main body portion is now complete
8. While the fuel bowl is still facing down on the workbench remove the old needle and seat assembly.
Hold the adjustment nut with a 5/8” wrench, with a large blade screwdriver loosen the lock screw
while holding the nut. Remove the needle and seat assembly. Set this assembly aside temporarily.
9. Turn the fuel bowl over. With a medium common tip screwdriver, remove the two screws holding in
the float assembly. Remove the entire assembly. Do both fuel bowls at the same time.
10. Lay both floats down on the workbench the same way it came out of the float bowl, with the hinge on
top. Remove the float hinge by pulling it through both the float bracket, float hinge and spring.
11. Reassemble using the new float. Place the float on the workbench in the same orientation as the bowl,
place the hinge on top of the float, and align the holes. Place the small end of the spring in the float
hinge locator hole. Slide the float hinge through the bracket and hinge holes as well as the float spring.
Once all the way through the assembly take the long end of the spring and position it in the cutout in
the float hinge. Use the other float assembly as a guide if needed. Repeat, using the first assembly as a
reference if needed.
12. Install the float assembly into each bowl. Insert the original screws and tighten. Note; these are self-
tapping screws so do not over-tighten.
13. Remove the adjusting nut and lock screw from the needle and seat assemblies. Locate the appropriate
gaskets in the small parts bag. Thread in the new needle and seat assembly into the fuel bow. When
the resistance makes it difficult, turn the fuel bowl upside down, place the large gasket on top of the
adjusting nut, slip the gasket and nut over the notch in the needle and seat assembly. Turn the nut
clockwise until the straight edge of the float is even with the center of the float bracket retainer screws.
With the float bowl still inverted, use a 3/8” drill bit, adjust the needle and seat until the drill just fits
between the flat surface of the float and surface directly below. This is the correct dry setting and you
should not have to alter this initial setting a great deal when running. Repeat this process with the
second bowl.
14. Install the jets supplied in the metering blocks.
15. Install the metering block gasket and fuel bowl gasket on the metering blocks.
16. Install the second fuel bowl gasket on the fuel bowl extension. Note the location of the accelerator
pump discharge hole to be certain the fuel bowl extension is properly oriented.
17. Place the metering block on the main body, install the fuel bowl gasket, then install the fuel bowl (be
sure the accelerator pump operating arm is oriented correctly over the fuel bowl pump arm). Install the
blue nylon gaskets over the fuel bowl screws. Tighten in sequence and torque to 35 inch pounds.
18. It may be necessary to re-adjust the accelerator pump orientation and over-ride spring adjustment.
With the carburetor inverted, check the alignment of the fuel bowl accelerator pump arm to be sure it is
centered on the adjustment bolt head. If necessary re-align with an adjustable wrench or suitable pliers
that will not mare the finish. Once aligned, check the pump override adjustment. There should be
tension on the fuel bowl pump arm at idle and some clearance at wide-open throttle. The
Insert #42 bleed here, this is
the idle air bleed.
Insert #63 bleed
here, this is the
intermediate bleed.
Insert #28 bleed here, this is
the high speed bleed.