P009-2013_dinghy_guide_what you need to know, The motorhome/dinghy link, Before you tow – Blue Ox 2013 Dinghy Towing Guide User Manual
Page 9: Tow bars, Baseplates
Before You Tow
The Motorhome/Dinghy Link
are available in 2- to 10-inch variations. Receiv-
ers should be bolted (not welded) in place,
using at least Grade 5 bolts and lock washers,
locking nuts and thread-locking sealer.
Tow Bars
Tow bars are available in two basic styles:
A-frame or self-aligning. A-frame tow bars
(offered as “solid” or “folding”), while the
most economical, are designed to fit a limited
number of baseplates (the mounting brackets
affixed to the dinghy) or specific applications;
however, the folding design will fit a wider
range than the solid design. These types of
tow bars are strong, but heavy, and require
storage space when not in use. Hitching is
easier with a helper to guide alignment.
Self-aligning tow bars are available in two
styles: dinghy-mounted and coach-mounted.
Coach-mounted units are the most desirable,
as there is less chance of damage when not in
use — and hitching is a one-person operation.
Highly adaptable, self-aligning tow bars fit a
broad range of vehicles by attaching to model-
specific baseplates: Class III (5,000-lb) or Class
IV (10,000-lb) models are available. Contact
tow-bar manufacturers to find out if baseplates
are offered for the dinghy you plan to tow.
BasepLaTes
Baseplates are perhaps the most critical vari-
able in this link. While tow bars and, obvi-
ously, hitch receivers are intended for mass
fitment, various brands, models and years of
dinghy vehicles require different baseplates
and installation procedures, so proper selec-
tion and installation are essential.
Installing a baseplate typically entails very
specific procedures. On some vehicles the
bumper covering (fascia) must be temporarily
removed. Some minor drilling may be re-
quired and the bumper covering and/or grille
may also require some trimming.
On some vehicles, the baseplate installa-
tion process can be even more intricate. For
example, the air dam may need to be trimmed
or the factory-installed belly pan may require
either trimming or permanent removal. Such
requirements are described in the manufac-
turer’s fitment charts — hopefully eliminating
any unpleasant surprises at installation time.
• Make sure your equipment is rated for
the dinghy’s weight and that you are not
exceeding your motorhome’s gross
combination weight rating (
gcwr
).
• Confirm hitch height is correct.
• Confirm all hitch bolts and tow-bar
and baseplate fasteners are securely
tightened.
• Confirm all hitch and wiring connections
are engaged and secure; all safety
chains or cables are attached; and all
locking pins are properly installed.
• Connect brake system and breakaway
device.
• Check motorhome and dinghy for
proper function of taillights, brakelights
and turn signals.
• Check tire pressure of all tires on coach
and dinghy — including spare tires.
• Make sure the dinghy is set up for tow-
ing: steering unlocked; emergency brake
off; gear selector in the position specified
by manufacturer; ignition in proper
position; lube-pump switch, driveshaft
coupler, 4WD transfer case and hubs
(if applicable) in proper position.
A) Baseplate installation doesn’t require welding or
specialized tools, but can be involved. If you have any
reservations, have a professional do it. B) To hook up
using a telescoping tow bar, the dinghy vehicle only
needs to be near the center and mid-length of the bar.
C) Connecting tow-bar arms to the baseplate requires
the use of pins and clips. Then secure the safety cables
and plug in the electrical umbilical cord. D) Once the
pins are in, the motorhome is driven ahead slowly (or
the dinghy is backed up) to lock the arms in position.
C
Today’s baseplates do a good job of blending
into the exterior lines of the dinghy vehicle.
Remember that all 50 states require prop-
erly rated safety chains or cables to keep the
dinghy from separating from the coach if the
tow bar or ball fails. Safety chains or cables
should be connected securely to the dinghy
and crossed under the tow bar, then secured
to the hitch receiver. They should be long
enough to allow full turning without binding,
but not drag when slack.
D
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