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Losi LOSB0021 User Manual

Page 15

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15

Engine is hard to turn over:

1. The engine may be flooded. Remove the glow plug,

turn the model upside down over a rag and turn the

engine over using the pull start. Raw fuel should spray

out of the glow plug hole. Replace the glow plug

making sure you replace the small copper gasket that

goes on it.

2. If the engine will not turn over it is probably still new

and stuck at top dead center. Use a screwdriver to

rotate the flywheel on the engine counterclockwise

until it moves freely, turn the model off then on again

and retry. It may take several such tries to get it to start.

After the engine has been run 30 to 45 minutes, you

will find this will not occur.

Engine tries to start but will not run:

1. Engine may be loaded up with excess fuel inside. Pull

the trigger 1/4-inch and count to 5 before trying to

start. If starting improves repeat until the engine runs

and idles.

2. Engine may be overheated. Let cool, open high-speed

needle 2 hours and retry.

3. If the fuel has been left open or is over 6 months old try

replacing the fuel including that in the fuel line.

4. If the engine refuses to start, read the “Engine Tuning”

section for more help.

Servicing Your Shocks

From time to time you should check your shocks for adequate

fluid. If the fluid is low, or it is getting dirty, you should

change the fluid in the shocks. You may also want to change

the shock fluid and or the pistons to better address the

conditions you are running on. Regardless of what the reason

you will want to follow these simple steps to service, refill,

and bleed your 810 shocks. Note that if you are cleaning or

changing the fluid you will find the LOSA99217 Nitrotec

Spray Cleaner to be the quickest and easiest way to remove

oil fluid and dirt safely.

1. If you are changing the pistons, clean the threads on

the end of the shock shaft and apply thread locker

(LOSA99202) to the threads.

2. Install the small shock piston washer and shock piston

using the 4-40 mini lock nut on the shock shaft to

secure them.

3. Put a drop of shock fluid on the shaft before replacing

it in the shock body.

4. If you are changing the shock end use the shock tool

provided with the 810 to hold the shaft. You will see

that this plastic tool has serrations on both sides that

allow you to hold it with a pair of pliers and not scratch

up the micro finished surface. This method works very

well to protect the shock shafts from damage.

5. After installing, make sure the shaft is fully extended

when filling the shock.

6. Fill the shock body with 30–35-weight shock fluid until

it is to the top of the Body.

7. Work the shock shaft up and down a few times. This will

release the air bubbles trapped beneath the piston.

8. Place the filled shock, in the upright position, off to the

side for a few minutes until the air bubbles escape from

the fluid.

9. Once all the air bubbles are out of the fluid, gently

place the shock bladder onto the top of the shock.

Some fluid will “bleed” from around the bladder.

10. Screw the shock cap onto the body until a little

resistance is felt.

11. Slowly push the shock shaft up. This will allow excess

fluid to bleed out.

12. Tighten the cap all the way down using the shock tools

included in your kit.

13. Move the shock shaft up and down. The shaft should

be easy to push up into the body of the shock.

14. If increased pressure is felt towards the top, there is too

much oil in the shock. Loosen the shock cap and bleed

the shock as done in steps 11 & 12.

15. Make sure each pair (front/rear) of shocks has the same

rebound and compression. This is checked by holding

one shock in each hand horizontally and pushing them

together by the shock end. Watch carefully to ensure

that both compress evenly. Now release both shocks

and again; watch carefully as they should rebound the

same.