Manley The WAVE DAC/Preamp 20 Bit Version Serial Code WAVE000-015 1999 - 2002 User Manual
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5. Before proceeding to the next step (power!) check that the On/Off switch is Off and the volume is
turned all the way down (anti-clockwise). Now connect the IEC power cable to the back of the
Wave's External Power Supply and then the other end to your mains wall socket.
6. Turn on the On/Off switch (to "1") and let the Wave "warm-up" for a few minutes. You should be
seeing the blue LEDs light up and some more noticably bright than others and the MUTE button
should have started out bright and probably went dim after 20 seconds - this is the warm-up
delay. You may push a few buttons at this point. Notice that when a button is pushed it toggles
from dim to bright to dim (bright = selected). Because the Wave when first turned on may be in a
random status, perhaps we should start off with some buttons in the "dim" mode. PHASE,
INSERT and MUTE should be dim. (If one of the 4 digital sources is selected and it is not
sending data, then the WAVE will automatically MUTE - try selecting A 1 to verify this)
7) Let us start off checking with a favorite CD. First select the input that you have chosen for the CD
preferably digital but analog should work. Press Play on the CD. If it is a digital input, then the
44.1 LED will be on and the Wave MUTE LED will be dim. Slowly turn up the Volume Control
and enjoy the music. Next check the other sources to verify they all work fine. From here on out,
use the STANDBY button to power down the Wave.
Troubleshooting:
It is rare that any of these initial problems occur but if they do here is some things to try.
SILENCE in ONE SIDE. Sometimes we don't get an interconnect pushed in enough for good contact
and it disconnects while we plug other wires in or move the component. Power down, check the
interconnects, re-check the above procedure. Power up and try again. If you have sound, sit back
and enjoy. If not, you may want to temporaily swap some interconnects to verify that you a) have
sound coming out the source, b) each of the interconnects is verified to be working fine, c)
everything IS plugged into appropriate jacks and/or each of the Wave's inputs seems to accept
signal.
HUM - First try the Grounding Posts on the back of the WAVE by un-strapping the two terminals
and/or connecting a wire fom either terminal to the suspect device. You can also try a mains
ground adapter if they are legal in your country. They are also called 3 pin to 2 pin adapters or
"cheaters" and are available in hardware stores. There should be ONE GROUND in your system
and only one. If two or more pieces of gear have 3 pin AC cables a ground loop can occur which
will usually cause hum. Today's power amps typically have 3 pin AC mains cables, so it is easy
to see where beween 2 power amps and the Wave, where one could have 3 grounds (at least)
connected both via interconnects and AC mains cables and that is two too many.
HISS - Usually one of the sources. This source may have a volume control that is turned down and
forcing you to turn up the volume of the Wave. Adjust the source so that it is a similar volume as
your other sources. If it seems to be the one channel of the Wave, then it is probably an input tube
(5751). Most tubes should last many years but sometimes they get noisy prematurely. To verify,
you can swap the two 5751's (with the power off) then test again. Be careful - tubes can be hot,
don't bend any pins and gently wiggle the tube to remove it or insert it. Force should not be
needed. If it wasn't a 5751, then put them back into the original locations.
NOISES. Sometimes a tube gets microphonic in shipping. This may result in a bit of "metallic ring"
in the signal or "ping" when the chassis is tapped, or even something that sounds like sputtering
RF noise. Usually gently tapping on the tube reveals the culpret and sometimes cures it.
BALANCE - The two speakers sound different - It may be the CD or source and the way it was
recorded. First try a different source. Next try swapping the inputs. Power down and swap left
and right inputs. If it is the source, then the problem will "follow" the swap. Return them to
normal (L=L). You can check all the way down the chain this way and really isolate and verify
the problem. Was it the volume control on a power amp?
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