Mallory Ignition Lakewood LIFT BARS 21314 - Manual (Page 2)

LAKEWOOD INDUSTRIES 2
TO USE YOUR LOWER CONTROL ARMS TO
ADJUST YOUR REAR END PINION ANGLE,
FOLLOW DIRECTIONS BELOW.
13. Remove car from jack stands. Now place car upon
blocks or car ramps so that the car weight is on all
(4) wheels, keeping the car level, but making sure you
still have room to work under the car to make
your adjustments.
14. With the car up in the air you will need to check the
pinion angle of the rear end and drive shaft. If you
don’t have one, you will need to aquire a magnetic
protractor (angle finder) at any auto location.
15. Read this before performing the next operation!
Using a magnetic protractor (angle finder) check
the pinion angle. If you can’t obtain the desired
4-6 degree pinion angle, then loosen the 4 lower
bolts and pry between the shock stud and control
arm to adjust angle. Tighten all bolts securely
while checking pinion angle.
16. Do not attempt to drive the car with out securing
the lift bar plate to the axle housing plate. Check
(drawing # 2) and using the measurements supplied
lay out the hole location in the approximate area
shown. Center punch and drill starting with 3/16” as a
pilot hole then step up the sizes using 1/4”, 5/16”,
3/8” and finishing with 1/2” for final size. Then install
the 1/2” bolts, lock washers and nuts and tighten.
(torque to 65 ft lbs.)
17. Remove car from the jack stands or car ramps
and place it on the ground. You are now ready
to Rock & Roll!
PLEASE NOTE:
A. Be sure to check the bolts frequently. Make sure
they are tight and always stay tight. You can use
thermal locking liquid if you wish.
B. Welding is optional (but not required) to secure the
lower plates to the lower axle brackets.
C. These lift bars are legal for use in NHRA Stock
eliminator classes as a bolt on application only!
(no welding is allowed).
PINION ANGLE
Pinion angle affects the efficiency of power trans
mission from the driveshaft to the rearend. The pinion
angle is the spread between the pinion centerline and
the driveshaft centerline. For maximum performance,
the ideal is to have a slight pinion down angle (min. 2
degrees) under full power.
Obviously, the pinion angle changes as power is
applied, so the axle housing begins to twist as the
pinion tries to drive the ring gear. Rear axle wind-up
can take some of the intial energy or “hit” away
from the launch. As a general rule, a leaf spring rear
suspension should have between 5-7 degrees of
static pinion angle (pinion down); and a factory
four-link should be set between 4-6 degrees.
Keep in mind that these pinion angles are for
competition. If you primarily drive your car on the
street, you shouldn’t have more than a 5 degree angle,
max. The u-joints are designed to run at this angle,
which allows the cups to rotate, avoiding premature
wear and failure. This doesn’t affect leaf spring
supension, since it runs well within this tolerance.
The height of the rear end (relative to the
rest of the driveline) will affect the pinion angle.
Using an angle finder, which is a tool the combines
a bubble level and protractor, to determine the
correct pinion angle for your car. Position the angle
finder on the driveshaft and record the
measurement, and then place the angle finder on
the pinion (the u-joint yoke rotated to vertical
position will give an accurate reading) and record
the measurment. The pinion angle is a combination
of the two measurements.
Example:
(Pinion 0 Degrees & Driveshaft 6 Degrees = 6 Degrees Total)
(Pinion 2 Degrees & Driveshaft 4 Degrees = 6 Degrees Total)
(Pinion 3 Degrees & Driveshaft 3 Degrees = 6 Degrees Total)
(Pinion 4 Degrees & Driveshaft 2 Degrees = 6 Degrees Total)
(Pinion 6 Degrees & Driveshaft 0 Degrees = 6 Degrees Total)
PICTURE #2
**NOTE: THIS DRAWING IS AN
EXAGGERATION.
THE PINION ANGLE IS THE RELATION
BETWEEN THE PINION CENTERLINE
AND THE DRIVESHAFT CENTERLINE.