John Wood Superflue Power Vent (before FVIR technology) - Manual (Page 17)

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To replace an anode:
1. Turn off gas/ power. (Follow “To Turn Off Gas to
Appliance” section)
2. Shut off the cold water supply valve to the heater.
3. Open an upstairs hot water faucet.
4. Drain approximately one full pail of water from the
water heater drain valve.
5. Remove the plastic cover (Item 15 in figure 1) from
the water heater top pan.
6. With a 1 1/16” hex socket wrench and a long han-
dle extension, unscrew the anode. NOTE: A power
driven impact wrench would make the job very
easy. It may be necessary for a second person to
restrain the heater to keep it from turning.
7. Pull out and inspect the anode. If necessary,
replace it with a new one.
8. When reinserting the anode, put a good grade
sealing compound on the thread of the anode.
9. Tighten the anode to the fitting of the tank.
10. Open the cold water supply valve to the heater. Fill
up the tank. Close the upstairs hot water faucet.
Check for leaks. Repair if necessary. If no leaks
are found, replace the plastic cover over the anode
access opening.
Odour, Discolouration of Water, Gas Escaping
from Hot Water Faucet
The following situations may arise depending on the
conditions of the water in your area:
Odour
Certain regions, particularly rural areas may have
water that contains sulphur in low concentrations.
Hydrogen sulphide gas may be produced as a reaction
between the anode and the water. This is recognized
by the “Rotten Egg” smell.
As a remedy, a different anode is available from the
manufacturer to replace the original magnesium
anode. Under no circumstances should the anode be
permanently removed from a tank without being
replaced.
CAUTION
The warranty is void if a water heater is operat-
ed without an anode.
Discolouration
It is also possible that “black” or discolored water may
come out of a hot water faucet. If reddish particles
seem to be present, it may be iron oxide which precip-
itates out of the water. It is usually present in the cold
water supply. Heating the water will worsen the condi-
tion.
In this case, an iron filter in the water supply of the
house will remedy this condition.
If any of such conditions are encountered, consult a
water specialist, who is familiar with the water condi-
tions in your area, for recommendation.
Gas Escaping
Hydrogen gas can be produced in a hot water system
that has been standing idle for a long period of time
(generally two weeks or more). Hydrogen gas is
extremely flammable. To prevent the possibility of injury
under these conditions, we recommend the hot water
faucet to be open for several minutes at the kitchen sink
before you use any electrical appliance that is connected
to the hot water system. If hydrogen gas is present, there
will probably be an unusual sound such as air escaping
through the pipe as the hot water begins to flow. Do not
smoke or have open flame near the faucet at the time it
is open.
If the problem is excessive, the anode should be
replaced with a special low potential anode which is
available from the manufacturer.
Gas Control
The gas control should not require any service except for
a check of the safety function.
Proceed as follows:
1. Turn the temperature dial down to the lowest setting.
Wait for the system to shut down completely.
2. Turn the gas control switch to “OFF”.
3. Turn the temperature dial up to the maximum setting.
4. Observe the ignitor. It should turn red hot and try to
light the main burner. After three trials for ignition, the
control will shut down and the LED indicator light will
start flashing. This indicates a lock–out and the con-
trol must be re–set.
To re–set the control
1. Turn off the electric power by pulling the plug of the
heater.
2. Turn the gas control switch to “ON”. Then, reinsert
the plug into the electrical socket.
3. Turn the temperature dial to the highest temperature.
The control should energize the ignitor and the burn-
er should light.
4. Turn the temperature dial down to the previous
desired temperature.
Condensation
This heater has been designed for maximum efficiency
and operates at very low flue (exhaust) temperature. As
a result, when the supply water temperature is very low,
the water vapor contained in the flue gases will condense
and drip down the flue tube onto the burner. Excess con-
densation may collect in the bottom of the heater. As the
tank temperature increases, this water will eventually
evaporate and be carried out with the flue gas. The bot-
tom of the heater has been designed to collect some of
this condensation, but in extreme cases it may overflow.
Do not confuse this with a leaking tank. Condensation
overflow is occasional. This is one of the reasons why a
heater should not be installed in a location where water
may damage flooring, carpeting or the contents of a
home. Installing a drain pan is always a good precaution.