American Car Craft Mustang Hood Panel 8Pc Perforated_Polished GT 2011-2012 - Manual (Page 2)

2. Remove the factory insulation pad. You will notice that your hood contains two tabs that held the
bottom of the hood pad. These two tabs will need to be sniped off the hoods sub frame using a good
pair of tin snips.
3. The next thing to do will be to re route the windshield sprayer supply line. The idea here is to eliminate
this tube from plain sight. Drill a small 1/4 hole into the hoods sub frame at the lower left hand corner
of the sub frames recessed area and also on the lower outer corner. This will allow you to sneak the
supply tube through the hoods sub frame and out to a new location that will be hardly noticeable
when opening and closing the hood. Seal the exit hole with some clear silicone sealant.
4. The next step will be to scuff up the top surface of the sub frame as well as perimeter of all the sub
frames recesses and then thoroughly scrub clean any and all dust particles and dirt with rubbing
alcohol. The idea here is to create a good bondable surface for the smaller panels as well as the main
section. Because this hood panel is mostly bonded to the factory hood you will want to does a very
thorough and complete job here in order to expect the installation to be trouble free long term.
5. Now you are ready to install all of the smaller perforated sections. If you are installing the kit on a black
hood use black 100% silicone to set the sections. In all other colors use clear 100% silicone. It is crucial
that you use pure 100% silicone for this installation! Do not substitute the silicone for any other type
of adhesive. The silicone has been tested to work perfectly and is heat resistant and a very reliable. So
what you will need to do is to set each of the smaller panels into place to get acquainted with just how
they are intended to fit. Although it should not be necessary you may need to tweak the shapes of
each panel so that they sit into place nice and contoured to the hoods recesses. Once these panels are
ready to be bonded apply a bead of the silicone to the perimeter only. You will want to apply the
silicone in such a way as to make a good contact but not so much that when you set the panels the
silicone won’t ooze out of the perforations. Some oozing will be unavoidable but as long as it is
minimal it will work just fine. If you happen to have created more oozing then you would like, DO NOT
wipe the silicone as this will make an unsightly mess. Instead simply allow it to dry completely and then
you will be able to just pick it off that area.
6. Now that all the small sections have been set you can proceed to the main panel. (Read this entire
section first!) You will notice the main panel has two slits at the top. These have been designed this
way to allow the panel to contour into the hoods sub frame. Once the hood has been set in place
simply lock this contour with the two loose trim rings provided. Apply a bead of the adhesive promoter
along the openings edge and then peel the red release liner from the ring and then carefully press it
into place. This will be the last thing you will do for this panel. You will also notice that panel contains
small holes that will match the holes in the sub frame. At all of these locations you will insert the
decorative hood buttons provided in the kit however these buttons must be assisted with the silicone
in order to expect a good solid bond. Simply run a good bead of the silicone along the top of the sub
frame surface but be careful not to apply the silicone directly over or near each of the holes as this will
cause the silicone to ooze out of these holes and create a mess! (TECH NOTE: Setting the main section
in place is NOT a one man job so have a friend help you set the panel carefully and slowly. If you