Great Planes Fokker Dr-1 60 ARF - GPMA1380 - Manual (Page 31)

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4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it has a
strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off the solder
joint inside the receiver.
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5. Balance your model laterally as explained in
the instructions.
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6. Use thread locking compound to secure critical
fasteners such as the set screws that hold the wheel axles
to the struts, screws that hold the carburetor arm (if
applicable), screw-lock pushrod connectors, etc.
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7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will turn freely.
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8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
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9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where
appropriate (servo mounting screws, cowl mounting
screws, etc.).
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10. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct
direction and the throws are set up according to the manual.
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11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the
clevises and that all servo arms are secured to the servos
with the screws included with your radio.
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12. Secure connections between servo wires and
Y-connectors or servo extensions and the connection between
your battery pack and the on/off switch with vinyl tape, heat
shrink tubing or special clips suitable for that purpose.
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13. Make sure any servo extension cords you may have
used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms,
pushrods, etc.).
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14. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffler with high
temp RTV silicone, thread locking compound or J.B. Weld.
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15. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are
not kinked.
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16. Use an incidence meter to check the wing for twists
and attempt to correct before flying.
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17. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
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18. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
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19. Place your name, address, AMA number and
telephone number on or inside your model.
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20. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and
make sure it is fully charged.
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21. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before
your first flight.
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22. Range check your radio when you get to the flying field.
The Fokker Dr. I ARF is a great-flying model that flies smoothly
and predictably. The Fokker Dr. I ARF does not, however,
possess the self-recovery characteristics of a primary R/C
trainer and should be flown only by experienced R/C pilots.
The Great Planes Fokker Dr. I is easier to fly than it looks.
This airplane handles really well on grass and as long as
throttle is not applied suddenly it takes off easily. In fact,
easier than many tail draggers. In flight, this model is very
neutral, meaning that the model will stay in the flying attitude
that you put it into. Elevator, aileron and rudder control is
very positive at all speeds and the model's stall is so soft it
is almost non-existent to the point that the pilot retains full
aileron and rudder control during prolonged full elevator
stalls. Its slow speed characteristics are excellent and that
coupled to the excellent maneuverability of the airplane
makes it possible for this airplane to turn on a dime without
losing altitude. On landing the Fokker Dr. I requires slightly
more attention than any other tail dragger because of the
narrow landing gear. Again, landing on grass if possible is
the best solution. After several flights you will feel so
comfortable with this airplane that you will forget all those
things that make you nervous now. Its flying performance
will impress you and also everybody else at the field.
A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature than
an un-cowled engine. For this reason, the fuel mixture
should be richened so the engine runs at about 200 rpm
below peak speed. By running the engine slightly rich, you
will help prevent dead-stick landings caused by overheating.
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES):
If, while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such as a
low-pitched “buzz,” this may be an indication of control
surface “flutter.” Because flutter can quickly destroy
components of your airplane, any time you detect flutter
you must immediately cut the throttle and land the
airplane! Check all servo grommets for deterioration (this
will indicate which surface fluttered) and make sure all
pushrod linkages are slop-free. If it fluttered once, it will
probably flutter again under similar circumstances unless
you can eliminate the slop or flexing in the linkages. Here
are some things which can result in flutter: Excessive
hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Sloppy fit of
clevis pin in horn; Elasticity present in flexible plastic
pushrods; Side-play of pushrod in guide tube caused by
tight bends; Sloppy fit of Z-bend in servo arm; Insufficient
glue used when gluing in the elevator joiner wire or aileron
torque rod; Excessive “play” or “backlash” in servo gears;
and Insecure servo mounting.
Fuel Mixture Adjustments
FLYING
31