American Car Craft Camaro Plenum Cover Brushed_Polished Illuminated Version 2010-2013 - Manual (Page 3)

With the fluid drained completely remove the factory heater hoses from the car and save. Remove the
four spring clams from the hoses as you will be using them on the new replacement hoses.
6. Now that the factory hoses have been removed we can now route the new hoses. Starting with the 5/8
hose route the end of the hose behind the passenger side heat shield attached to the wheel well.
Route the hose up to the fire wall so that you are nice and tight to the brake lines located there and up
to the 5/8 pipe connection. Slide the factory hose clamp onto the end and then attach it to the pipe. Be
sure to arrange the hose so that there are no kinks and/or bad twists in the hose. Then simply cut the
hose at the other end so that it will line up nicely to the water pump location at the engine and clamp
it there as well. Perform the same exact procedure with the 3/4‘’ hose. Secure the two hoses at the fire
wall where they cross the brake lines with a good zip tie to finish this part of the engine tuck.
7. The next step in our procedure will be to reroute the two black plastic vacuum lines running over the
top of the throttle body area. To do this detach each of the quick connect tubes and save. Replace the
tubes with your 3/8” vacuum line only rout the tubes under the throttle body opening. You will see
that there is plenty of room to do this and the new rubber vacuum hose will slip perfectly over the
quick connector tube on the motor providing a perfectly alternate routing. Change each of the two
tubes separately to make sure you don’t criss cross the connections. Route the long vacuum tube
under the driver side coil pack bracket completely concealing this tube until it comes up to the rear
vacuum line connection point.
8. Remove the last vacuum line from the valve at the front of the passenger side engine head completely
and replace this line as well routing it along the wire harness that stenches across to the wheel well
bracket. You will need a small plastic release tool for this line. This can be found at any auto parts store
costing less than a dollar.
9. Next remove the plastic engine cover retainer by removing the single 10mm bolt securing the one end.
Once removed lift the bracket off the fuel line and then replace the bolt. Save this bracket for
restoration.
10. The next step will be to reposition the engine fuel line. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the single line
clamp to the engine. Once this is released snip the end of this bracket so that the hole will become a
notch using a common tin snip. Rotate the entire line so that it will be rerouted behind the engine. This
line will rotate easily at both connection points allowing you to relocate the line bracket at the rear
passenger side plenum bolt location. Loosen this bolt and then slide the bracket you snipped earlier
and then secure. Because the metal line is very stiff you will need to manipulate the line a little to get
the right placement. Tip the passenger side end so the line will be able to be routed in back of the heat
shield you routed the heater hosed earlier and then zip tie its position to the brake line there so that it
is nice and secure.
11. The last thing you will need to do is tuck the three main wire harnesses so that they will no longer be
stung over the top of the coil packs. To do this removes all the fasteners of the harness. Detach each of
the spark plug wires on the passenger side and route the lower harness under the coil pack bracket.
You will notice a hole in this bracket. Use this hole to secure the harness using a zip tie. Reinstall the
spark plug wires. The two remaining wire harnesses can be tucked just below the fuel injectors by
unplugging each of the injectors and tucking the two harnesses below the injectors and then simply
reinstall the injector connectors to finish the engine line tucking procedure.
12. Replace the factory air tube assembly.