High Lifter Outlaw Clutch Kit for Polaris 800 RZR (10-12) - Manual (Page 2)

6. Install the DARK GREEN colored primary spring. Make sure the spring fits flat into the clutch at both ends. Install
cover onto clutch being sure to align the “X” marks as noted when you disassembled it. Make sure the cover lines
up properly on the clutch towers so the two raised areas on the cover seat properly. Damage can result if this is not
done properly. Tighten the six outside cover bolts evenly so the cover aligns and seats properly into the clutch
towers to prevent damage. Install the center retaining bolt and torque to 45-47 ft/lbs. After riding your machine, if
you would like LOWER engagement than where this kit engages you can install the RED colored spring. This spring
will LOWER your engagement 2-300 rpms. If your kit only has one primary spring you can order this optional
spring through EPI.
7. Remove the secondary (clutch on driver’s side) clutch by removing the center clutch bolt and pulling towards you.
The clutch should slide off the splined shaft. If the clutch sticks on the shaft spray some penetrating fluid on the
shaft to help free it. If it still doesn’t come off, you will need to order a secondary clutch puller (EPI part #SCP-1).
When the clutch does come off pay attention to the shims behind the clutch on the shaft. These shims effect the
clutch alignment, if they slide off the shaft be sure to put them back on.
8. Place the clutch face down so the spring and spring retainer are facing up. Using a compression tool (EPI part #
CCT510) carefully compress the spring enough to take the pressure off the spring retainer. Remove the snap ring,
spring retainer and spring. Place the EPI GREEN secondary spring and spring retainer in the clutch. Using the
compression tool, slowly and carefully compress the spring until you can install the snap ring.
9. Install the belt in the secondary clutch so the numbers on the belt read from left to right. You need to get the clutch
sheaves to open so the belt can drop down into the clutch. This will give you enough slack in the belt to feed it
around the primary clutch and then slide the secondary clutch onto its shaft and reinstall the bolt that holds it in
place. Our trick for this is to loop the belt around the clutch, slide the clutch onto its shaft on the machine, then
while stepping into the machine, grab the belt and pull straight up. This will pull the belt down into the sheaves fairly
easily. Then slide the clutch back off the shaft, loop the belt around the primary clutch and then reinstall the
secondary and tighten the bolt that holds it on the shaft. With the machine in neutral, spin the clutches by hand until
the secondary has shifted back to its closed position and the belt is riding at the top of the sheaves. If you fail to do
this it will be like starting out in high gear when you try to drive it for the first time and you will possibly burn the
belt. Torque the secondary clutch bolt to 15 ft/lbs.
10. Install the plastic clutch cover, making sure it seals properly. Tighten the clamps to seal the vent tube on top of
the clutch cover. Install the rear service panel. Install the seat cross bar and install both seats.
11. Go out and ride your machine. If after riding the machine something doesn’t seem right, double check that the
secondary clutch has been assembled correctly.
NOTICE: Even with this clutch kit, you should be advised that using substantial throttle when the tires are not able to
spin can cause the belt to slip and damage may occur. EPI recommends that the transmission be shifted into low
range when high load, slower speed situations are encountered. EPI is not responsible for any damage to the drive
belt or any other original equipment component.