High Lifter Outlaw Clutch Kit for Yamaha 700 Rhino (2008) - Manual (Page 2)

5. Remove the large nut (22mm) that holds the secondary clutch on. Set aside the white plastic fan blade and spacer,
noting the order they were removed. Remove the clutch and the belt from the machine. Using a 1 13/16” socket or
a large wrench loosen the large nut holding down the secondary spring retainer. ONLY TURN NUT 1/2 TURN, DO
NOT TOTALLY REMOVE NUT. The nut and retainer are under extreme pressure and can cause damage or
injury if not removed properly. Using a compression tool (EPI part # CCT510) carefully compress the spring
enough to take the pressure off the nut. Remove the nut slowly release the pressure off the spring. Remove the
spring.
6. Place the EPI spring and the spring retainer in the clutch. Using the compression tool or a press slowly and carefully
compress the spring until you can thread the nut onto the shaft. Once the nut has been threaded on the shaft you
can remove it from the press and torque nut to 72 ft/lbs. Set clutch aside.
7. Remove the rest of the primary clutch from the machine. Remove the oil drain plug from the motor; if you can
carefully drain it into a clean container you should be able to reuse it. After oil is drained remove the bolts that hold
the aluminum housing that contains the internal clutch. This is the housing that has the shaft sticking out of it that
the primary clutch sits on. Slowly remove the housing, try not to damage the gasket. If gasket is damaged you will
need to install a new one. Some oil may leak from the housing when first removed, this is normal. Note: There is
a directional bearing inside the clutch housing that could fall out while removing the housing.
8. Remove the nut (27mm – left hand thread) that holds the inner sprague clutch on, some nuts are peened flat and
must be straightened before they can be removed. Slide the clutch off; keep track of which side faces out. Place
clutch on a clean work area. Push down slightly on the outside cover and remove the e-clips. Keeping track of
which way they come off remove the three round metal plates one at a time. This will allow you to see and change
the inner sprague springs. Install the EPI springs by inserting the spring into the outer edge first. Using a spring
tool or pliers pull on the spring and insert the end into the other hole. Install the three metal plates and the e-clips.
Slide the clutch back onto the machine. Install the nut and torque it to 115 ft/lbs, if it was peened over be sure to
peen it back to lock it into position. If the directional bearing came out, replace the bearing on the inner Sprague
clutch. The bearing is stamped indicating which side faces out. Make sure to put the bearing on making sure the
stamping is facing out, if it did not come out when removing the housing it should be good. Install the gasket and
install the aluminum housing. Torque the housing bolts to 7.2 ft/lbs.
9. Push the back half of the primary clutch back onto the shaft making sure that it fully engages the splines on the
shaft. Put the secondary clutch on; make sure it slides on all the way. Torque the nut to 72 ft/lbs. Thread the bolt
included in this kit into one of the threaded holes on the side of the secondary clutch. This should spread the clutch
sheaves apart. Put the belt in the clutch. Most belts have an arrow indicating direction of rotation. If your belt
doesn’t, be sure to install it so that you can read the part number. In either case, always run the belt the same
direction as it was new.
10. Grab the primary clutch, push the inner part down with your thumbs and hold down as you pick up the clutch.
While holding the inner part of the clutch from moving, slide the primary clutch onto the shaft. You need to slightly
rotate the clutch back and forth to get it to fully seat on the shaft. Keep pressing on the inner cover of the clutch
while installing it - this should keep the rollers in place. Keep it pushed in until you can install the nut and washer.
The clutch should slide all the way back easily. If the clutch doesn’t seem to go on far enough to tighten the nut
properly (it should slide all the way on to the edge of the splines) you might have a roller out of place or the belt
might be blocking it. If needed, move the belt up and down to see if the clutch will slide on farther. If the rollers
seem out of place take the clutch apart and check roller location. Install the large nut and torque it to 85 ft/lbs.
Remove the bolt that was threaded into the secondary clutch and manually spin the clutch assembly until the belt
has shifted out on the clutch to the idle position.
11. Assemble the aluminum clutch guard and carefully install the plastic clutch cover and gasket to ensure a good seal.
Reinstall the vent assembly. Reinstall the seat support and the angle brace on top of driver’s seat frame. Bolt seat
frame cover back on. Install the black plastic console and reinstall the seats.
12. Install oil drain plug. Refill your engine oil to the proper level according to owners manual. You can reuse your oil
if it is clean and was drained into a clean container. You must use NON Friction Modified oil (stock Yamaha). DO
NOT use oils with Friction Reducing Agents, this WILL CAUSE SLIPPAGE AND DAMAGE.
13. Go out and ride your machine. If the performance doesn’t seem right double check to make sure everything has
been done properly.
NOTICE: Even with this clutch kit, you should be advised that using substantial throttle when the tires are not able to
spin can cause the belt to slip and damage may occur. EPI recommends that the transmission be shifted into low
range when high load, slower speed situations are encountered. EPI is not responsible for any damage to the drive
belt or any other original equipment component