Dynaflite Original - Manual (Page 6)

2. The rudder is joined and sanded to the airfoil section shown on the
drawing. Again, it seems prudent to cut large lightening holes in the
rudder. For maximum lightness, a built-up rudder is easily built and
is extremely strong.
3. To construct a built-up rudder you will need 3 pieces of l/l6" X
1/4" X 36" balsa, 1 piece of 1/4" sq. X 12" balsa, and some scrap 1/4"
balsa sheet (these pieces are not furnished). Glue the 3/8" balsa rudder
together and sand the edge to the correct outline. Cut 1/4" off the
entire trailing edge, leaving the hinge edge as is and sand to a smooth
contour. This will be used as a form for laminating a trailing edge. Put
down a piece of wax paper on a building board and pin down the form. Cut
& 3/8" strip of wax paper and pin it around the contour of the form to
keep the assembly from sticking. Cut 4 pieces of l/l6" X 1/4" balsa l8"
long. Coat one side of one of these pieces with Titebond or white glue
and place around the form, glue side out. Hold in place temporarily
with pins. Coat both sides of two more pieces and put in position. Coat
one side of the last piece, place on the form, and put a row of pins
around the outside to hold tightly to the form. Let dry overnight and
remove from the form. You now have a very strong trailing edge that
will hold its shape. Trim this 1/4" laminated trailing edge to length
and trim and glue in place the 1/4" sq. balsa leading edge. Trim and
glue two corner gussets made from the 1/4" scrap sheet. Hake the lower
gusset large enough to mount the rudder horn. Add a triangular pattern
of fore and aft braces made from l/l6" X 1/4" balsa. Sand the assembly
and round the leading edge for hinging. The trailing edge may be left
square or slightly rounded. Cut the slot for the rudder horn but do not
install until the rudder is covered. Slot both the fin and rudder for
hinges but do not install at this time (plastic hinges are recommended
instead of Monocoat as suggested on the plan).
The partially assembled fin from step 1 above is set aside and will
be completed on assembly to the fuselage.
FUSELAGE
1. Determine which of the pieces of wood left in the box look most
like fuselage sides and give these a light sanding to remove any fuzz.
You will notice that the bottom edge of the sides are straight, but the
plans show a slight curve. We left the edge straight so the builders
who wish to, may pin the rear bottom edge flat to the work surface. Also,
the 1/64" plywood rear fuselage doubler has been omitted because the
fuselage sides are one piece.
2. Use contact cement to glue the 1/64" plywood nose doubler to the
foreward inside surface of the fuselage sides. I guess I don't have to
warn you to make a right hand and left hand side, but I will.
3. Lay the fuselage sides over the plan and mark the position of
bulkheads 1 , 2 , and 3. Note that the foreward and aft bottom blocks in
the kit join at bulkhead #2 not where shown on drawing. Notch the foreward
block for towhook not the aft one. Also, lay the bottom front fuselage
block over the outline on the drawing and mark the position of bulkhead
#1 (shown as two dotted lines).
5.