Dynaflite Original - Manual (Page 5)

2. Cover the plan with wax paper. Slide the 3/32" shims under the wax
paper at the trailing edge of each of the four ribs. Let it protrude
from under the trailing edge 1/8" or so to support the ribs. Do the
same at the leading edge using the l/l6" shims. Pin the leading and
trailing edges in place over the plan supported by the shims, gluing the
leading edge to the tip with Titebond or white glue.
3. Trim the main spar to length from 3/16" hardwood. Taper the outboard
2" symmetrically to 1/8". Trim the four bottom ribs to length bearing
in mind they will bow around the main spar. Carry the inboard rib all
the way to the leading edge so it will glue to the triangular brace.
Glue in the ribs and main spar using Titebond or white glue. Pin the
spar down so the ribs are snug to the building board. Trim short pieces
of l/l6" X 1/4" balsa and glue them to the foreward end of the ribs
against the leading edge. These will support the top ribs. Trim the
top ribs to length and glue in place. Select material for the opposing
top and bottom ribs that have about the same bending strength so the
section will turn out symmetrical. Trim and glue the 3/l6 sq. root
pieces. Tapering of these pieces can be left until later. Remove from
the board and add 3/l6" sq. filler shown in section S-S. Build 2nd stab.
4. Use a scrap of 3/l6" sq. hardwood to make a drill jig for the stab
wire holes. Drill l/l6" holes In the Jig and then in the stabilizer root
ribs. Ream the aft hole to 3/32". Roughen the ends of the stab wires
with sandpaper, clean with lacquer thinner and epoxy into the stabilizer.
Ream the foreward hole in the other half to 3/32" and the rear one to
1/8" Roughen and clean the mating aluminum bearing tubes and epoxy them
in place as shown on the drawing.
5. Taper the inboard root pieces as shown and fit and glue l/l6" sheeting
in place. It will rest on the foreward triangular brace and stick up
1/32" but this will be sanded to fair with the leading edge.
A careful sanding to the airfoil shown on the drawing completes the
stabilizer construction.
FIN & RUDDER
1. Mark the position of the 3/4" sq. X 1/4" hardwood insert on the fin
using the die-cut l/l6" fin sides as a pattern. When marked, put the
die-cut plug back in the l/l6" fin side and cyanoacrylate in place. The
only purpose of the die-cutting is to give you a pattern for accurate
location of the cut-out. Cut the square hole in the fin. Drill a 1/8"
hose in the center of the hardwood insert. If a drill press is available
use it to drill this hole as it must be square with the fin surface.
Roughen and clean the 1/2" piece of 3/32" I.D. brass tubing and epoxy It
in the hole with 1/8" sticking out each side. Epoxy the insert in the
fin. Before the epoxy sets, put a piece of 3/32" wire through the tubing
(or use the completed stab and check the squareness with the fin. Make
any small adjustments by re-seating the insert in the fin. As every
ounce in the tail area requires 2 - 1 / 2 ounces in the nose to balance,
a lightening hole in the top of the fin is suggested.
4.