Bos KIRK 2014 User manual - Manual (Page 5)

3.4. HYDRAULIC SETTINGS
The KIRK shock is a three-ways type shock, which means there are three types of damping adjustment: rebound,
low-speed compression and high-speed compression + a lock out lever for low speed compression only.
Your shock’s basic setting (internal) is designed for your bike’s geometry. We use ten basic settings which cover the
majority of bikes on the market. If a different setting is necessary for a given bike, we will develop it especially.
The purpose of damping adjustments is to use all the shock’s travel without bottoming-out (or only rarely), to give
grip to the rear wheel, but also to stop the bike stalling in holes, and finally to maintain a good position. Below are
the basic settings for your frame. Then it’s up to you to analyse its performance and adjust the settings to suit your
riding style. Do this carefully and methodically, step by step. Only change one setting at a time and only by a few
clicks. If it’s OK, note the setting and type of terrain. If you get confused with the settings, return to the basic settings
and start again.
3.4.1. Low speed compression (A) and low speed compression lock out lever (B)
The low-speed compression (A) affects the shock’s performance in compression over small bumps or through the
beginning of the travel.
It can be useful to make the low-speed harder (screw clockwise) on rolling terrain with big compressions and
kickers.
It can be useful to make the low-speed softer (screw anti-clockwise) on steep gradients.
The lock out lever (B) acts on the low-speed compression and affect the threshold. It can be useful to lock it on
pedaling section and uphill to maintain a good balance of the bike.
3.4.2. High speed compression (C)
The high-speed compression acts mainly on harsh hits (jump landings, rough rutted sections). It should be soft
enough to get all the travel without bottoming-out. If, on a given track, you bottom-out a lot, make the high-speed
compression harder. However, don’t get hung up on bottoming-out if you only do it once or twice during a run. You
risk setting your shock for 3% of the course and losing effeciency on the other 97%.
If your shock doesn’t get full travel, soften the high-speed compression.
3.4.3. Rebound (D)
The main factor in adjusting the rebound is the position of the bike. A downhill bike shouldn’t be ‘sat-down’ all the
time, although the back does need to be fairly low. Playing with the rebound will allow you to keep this balance.
If you feel like the back of the bike’s pushing you forward on a slope or when braking, increase the rebound (screw
clockwise). It can be useful to accompany this adjustment (especially if the problem persists) by unscrewing the
low-speed compression slightly.
If, on the other hand, the bike seems too low at the back and/or the front end has a tendency to drift offline, reduce
the rebound (screw anti-clockwise).
C
A
B
D